db drinks: Swift

db heads to one of the most talked about new openings of the year, Swift in Soho, for a night of Art Deco decadence and Madeira-laced cocktails.

The concept: Taking over the space occupied by cocktail institution Lab Bar on Old Compton Street, Soho’s Swift is a collaboration between two cocktail power couples – Bobby Hiddleston and Mia Johansson of Dead Rabbit, Milky & Honey, and Callooh Callay fame, and Edmund Weil and Rosie Stimpson of The Nightjar and Oriole.

With a wealth of combined experience in how to run beautiful bars, Swift was always going to be a hit. Having only been open a matter of months, it’s fast becoming one of the most loved and talked about new bars in town.

The décor: Swift is very much a tale of two bars. On ground level you’ll find a light and buzzy apéritivo bar serving Martinis many ways and signature serve the Sgroppino, a refreshing blend of Prosecco and lemon sorbet that sells like hot cakes. Ideal for a pre (or post) prandial sharpener, with its studio lights and cinematic signage, the bar has the feeling of a grande dame’s dressing room.

Downstairs is decked out like a New York speakeasy with a well-stocked back bar, (flattering) low lighting and stunning Art Deco detailing around the mirrors. It’s an effortlessly stylish space that gives the impression of having been around for years, which is no mean feat for a shiny new venue.

Drinks: Keen for each of the two bars to have their own identity, in addition to distinctive décor, both boast their own cocktail menus.

On the ground floor you can enjoy the aforementioned Sgroppino, the vivifying Medallion, made with lemongrass gin, grappa, lemon sherbet, mint and absinthe; and the Piccolina, a nutty blend of amontillado Sherry, white Port and fig.

Down in the basement the focus is on whisky in all its glorious guises, no doubt in a hat tip to Bobby’s Scottish roots. The menu is diverse and daring, featuring flavour combinations that make your mind bend – the refreshing Liberty, a twist on a Peach Cobbler, sees Woodford Reserve Bourbon and Sauternes share a glass alongside white peach, lemon and Chartreuse.

Worried it might be sickly sweet, it was far from it, delivering a delightfully fresh and fruity celebration of stone fruit that made it feel like Derby day.

The Prestige meanwhile, upgrades a traditional sour with Clos Martin VSOP Cognac, pistachio orgeat, lemon, Rosolio and egg white. Rather than being creamy and cloying, the flavours were so well mixed it offered an exquisite fusion of nutty and citrus flavours, its silk-like texture making it dangerously easy to drink.

Upstairs at Swift

Signature sips: Working my way up to something strong, the Amber Cane played on a Manhattan with Swift’s own rum, Madeira, Benedictine, orange curaçao and mole bitters.

Strong and punchy, the nutty notes of the Madeira worked so well with the orange and hints of chocolate in decadent marriage I’d happily stay faithful to.

Another signature serve is the White Water. Don’t be fooled by its soft sounding name, this sip is seriously strong, blending Great King Street Glasgow Blend Scotch, coconut falernum and banana.

The food: Swift doesn’t have a huge offering but does serve one of the best steak tartares in town in a large portion laced with salty capers. Also on offer are native oysters and Guinness Welsh rarebit.

Who to know: Ask for Bobby and Mia at the downstairs bar, who will walk you through the menu and recommend sips based on your favourite flavours. It’s worth trying to nab one of the seats at the bar for a front row ticket to the action.

Don’t leaven without: No visit to Swift would be complete without ordering the Irish Coffee for the road. Paying homage to Bobby and Mia’s time at lauded and awarded Irish tavern Dead Rabbit in New York, the unctuous digestif combines Jameson Caskmates, Demerara syrup, coffee, cream and nutmeg. Served warm, it slips down easy – just don’t blame us if it keeps you up all night.

Last word: Like the Nightjar, there’s something special about Swift, which feels like an instant classic on London’s cocktail circuit. It’s chic and stylish but also fun and friendly with a convivial atmosphere – there’s even a piano in the corner.

Bars like this don’t come around very often and when they do they’re usually out east. For anyone who appreciates the simple beauty of an expertly mixed drink Swift is a must – I’m already plotting my return.

Swift, 12 Old Compton Street, London W1D 4TQ; Tel: +44 (0)20 7437 7820.