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Uncorked: Jasper Morris MW
One of the world’s foremost authorities on Burgundy, Jasper Morris founded his own wine importing company, Morris & Verdin in 1981 and achieved his Master of Wine qualification in 1985. Berry Bros & Rudd acquired Morris & Verdin in 2003 and Morris was then appointed the buying director, a position he has held until it was announced last month that he will retire in July. Morris has also written extensive guides on Burgundy, including White Wines of Burgundy and Inside Burgundy and speaks to dbHK about being happiest in his garden in Burgundy and drinking Cos d’Estournel 1966 at university.
What vintage are you?
1957, so I was born in the Year of the Rooster. 1957 was superb for Tokaji Essencia and a surprise vintage for red Burgundies. They were nasty, mean things in their youth but now they have aged beautifully.
What bottle sparked your love of wine?
The first memorable bottle was Cos d’Estournel 1966 that was available from my college cellar at £2.50 a bottle.
What would you be as a wine?
I hope something warm and cuddly with a little bit of austerity. It would have to be long-lived. Saint-Estephe perhaps? I will say a magnum of red that everyone will enjoy.
Where are you happiest?
I’m happiest in my garden in Burgundy. I prefer the countryside to the town and I like to be outside working in the garden, dry stone walling, that sort of thing.
What’s your greatest vice?
Greed, probably.
Best advice you’ve ever been given?
From Harry Waugh: Always sell something that you believe in.
Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?
If it’s only one bottle it probably wouldn’t be worth it, but I’ll say a bottle of Musigny from Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier.
What’s the best & worst thing about the wine business?
The best thing is working with something you love and with a really nice bunch of people. The worst thing is probably having to make a business out of something that should just be a pleasure.
What’s on your wine bucket list?
There’s a joy in finding and drinking new things and I never worry about the wine which got away.
Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?
I would invite the French writer, Stendhal. He’s fascinating on a number of subjects and occasionally writes about wine. Also John Arlott, the cricket commentator. He was born in Basingstoke like me and we share the same passions: wine and cricket. I would have to have Jane Austen there too, for her wit. I suspect in person she is a lot sharper than her characters and we have another local Hampshire connection.
Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)?
Very high: 95+. The things that I haven’t enjoyed are the things that I haven’t done well enough, but overall I am very happy.
Which wine would you like served at your funeral?
Lots. I’ve put a provision in my will regarding the wines of the wake. I would like to have a bring-a-bottle party where people will bring something that they have drunk with me at some point.