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Behind the bar with…Yuriko Naganuma
Yuriko Naganuma moved to Hong Kong from Tokyo in August last year to head up Bar de Luxe, the Hong Kong project of Hidetsugu Ueno of the acclaimed Bar High Five. After finishing her photography course, Yuriko-san studied bartending and caught the eye of master bartender, Takao Mori, who took her under his wing. Yuriko-san won a string of competitions which led her to Paris and Singapore and appearances on the international bartending circuit. Yuriko-san then started mentoring under Ueno-san where she did a stint in Melbourne and then returned to Tokyo to work with him in Bar High Five. When it came time for Ueno-san to choose the head bartender for his Hong Kong project, Yuriko-san was his obvious first choice.
What led you to be behind the bar?
I was a photography student and I chose to do the classical photography course rather than digital which became very expensive. I started looking for a job at the local izakayas but bartenders are paid more money so I started pouring beer and observing how to make cocktails which was fascinating to me. That was 12 years ago now.
Which spirit ignited your passion?
I like working with gin. My previous mentor, Takeo Mori makes the best martini in Japan. The secret is to use frozen gin at -10C with a touch of Vermouth and orange bitters. He was so precise, he would stir it 100 times exactly. But technically, bartenders should not have a preference. We make what the customers want.
What are the best and worst things about the industry?
If the customer tells me they like my martini then it makes me very happy. Anyone can make a martini but if they like mine it is the best feeling. Also in Hong Kong we work shorter hours than in Japan. I would go into Bar High Five at 2pm and we could close at 1am. Then we’d have supper with our boss and end up going home at 4 or 5am. This would happen Monday through to Saturday.
If you had to be a particular spirit or cocktail which one would you be?
I am still not sure. It’s for others to choose for me.
Lime or lemon?
Lime because it goes best with gin best and lemon is too sour with gin. Lime is also sour but has a more complex flavour. So I like it.
Complete this sentence, last time I drank, I…
I went to my friend’s house for a dumpling party. We played cards and dice and every time we rolled the same number on the dice we had to drink that many shots.
What are your favourite seasonal cocktails?
Your palate changes depending on the season and the place. In Japan I liked really creamy cocktails when it was cold. I used to add cream cheese and chocolate liquor! But here in Hong Kong I prefer lighter, more citrus styles.
Where is your favourite place in Asia for cocktails?
I like Melbourne. There are great bars and the food is really good. I’m also interested in wine and the Yarra Valley has some of the best sparkling wine and wineries. I love Seville Estate.
Please share one of your favourite recipes?
For a martini, keep the gin in the freezer and then just rinse the glass with Vermouth. Use big ice cubes. If the ice cubes are too small then the cocktail will be diluted. Garnish with whatever you like. I also like Bamboo, Japan’s classic cocktail. It’s like a martini but you use sherry instead of gin.