New on Wine List Confidential: The Don

The Don – Wine List Confidential Score: 87.6

The Don deserves your respect

Starting life as a Sandeman’s bottling cellar in 1798, The Don (named in homage to George Sandeman), with a fascinating array of nooks and crannies filled with wine, maintains considerable vinous pedigree with today’s list running to over 400 wines. These include a considerable stash of quietly maturing Port, Sherry, Vouvray and turn of the (18th) century Madeira.

A good place to begin is with a taste of Trinity Hill from an estate owned by The Don and sister restaurant, The Bleeding Heart. A glass of their Hawke’s Bay bottling from New Zealand starts at just £5.

The mineral rather than shrill Sauvignon Blanc, for example, adds vigour to a starter of snail ‘Forestier’ ravioli, with crisp smoked bacon, wild mushrooms and shallot sauce.

Port barrel storage on St Swithin’s Lane before colour was invented

Meanwhile an ample selection of second-label St Julien Bordeaux could add old-school charm to fillet of Black Angus beef tartare, prepared to your palate at table. Although generally reasonably priced, there are some occasional traps on the list, though, such as the £544 bottle of 2006 Sassicaia.

There’s a juicy selection of around 25 Champagnes along with a very good range of wines by the glass or carafe, including good Sherry and Sandeman’s (of course) Port.

You’ll also find a handful of icons available as 75ml sample or 125ml glass by Coravin, including Didier Dageneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly 2012 (£13/£22) and Haut-Bailly 1998 (£22/£24).

To view The Don’s full Wine List Confidential entry, including individual category scores and wine recommendations, click here.

To view from all 350+ Wine List Confidential entries click here.