Riesling ‘most undervalued’ variety in Australia

Riesling is the most undervalued variety in Australia, with the wines often hugely over-performing for their price point according to one champion of the grape.

Vineyards in the Clare Valley, one of the cradles of Riesling in Australia

Speaking to the drinks business during a recent visit to Australia, Helen McCarthy, winemaker at Thorn Clarke Wines, said:

“Riesling is the only variety in Australia that’s undervalued – you can still get awesome Rieslings for under AU$20 (£15) here, whereas the same quality wine made with a different grape would cost more like $40 (£30).”

Perhaps because of the value for money it offers, Kerri Thompson, owner and winemaker at Wines by KT in the Clare Valley, revealed that younger consumers in Australia are developing a taste for all styles of Riesling, while sommeliers are really getting behind the wines for their textural quality.

Comparing Rieslings from the Clare and Eden Valley, Clarke said those made in Eden are easier going and more approachable in youth.

“Eden Valley Rieslings are really elegant – they’re very mineral and floral – I like to describe them as smelling like granny’s bath salts. In youth, Eden Valley Rieslings are prettier, softer, more elegant and have less in your face acidity than Rieslings from Clare Valley,” she said.

“Clare Valley Rieslings are more powerful in youth but they put on a few pounds with age and become softer and more voluptuous, while Eden Valley Rieslings tend to hold their shape more,” she added.

Describing acidification as being like “seasoning” for the wines, Thompson told db that winemakers are increasingly experimenting with sweeter styles of Riesling but not always to great effect.

“People are playing with sweeter styles of Riesling at the moment but if they try and push the fruit too hard then they end up looking terrible,” she said.

Meanwhile, across the country in Tasmania, Jeremy Dineen, winemaker at Josef Chromy, revealed that Tassy Rieslings are the most acidic of those made in Australia.

“Tasmanian Riesling is at its best after a year in bottle as the elements meld better at that point.

“Our Rieslings have higher acidity levels than the rest of Australia, so the fresh fruit character stays around for longer and you get less of those kerosene notes and more toast and honey aromas after a while,” he said.