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New on Wine List Confidential: L’Anima
L’Anima – Wine List Confidential Score: 89.4
L’Anima’s list lovingly catalogues a thoughtful cross-section of Italy’s smaller, and often environmentally committed, producers alongside a dozen celebrity-grade bottles of Bordeaux.
The finest bins are racked in an LED-illuminated, glass-fronted wine trove of a space which may also be booked as a somewhat cool in temperature private dining room. These include: Ornellaia (offered by the glass) as well as Sassicaia, Masseto and the ultra-rare Ornellaia Bianco.
The list also embraces the emerging influence of more ‘natural’ wine-focused wineries, such as Simčic in Slovenia. It’s an inquisitive selection in which you may glimpse an Etna Bianco alongside Calabrian Mantonico.
Chef Antonio Favuzzi – protégé of previous patron, Francesco Mazzei – was born in Sassari, Sardinia, to a Sicilian mother and Puglian father. He cooks beautifully presented, depthful, updated dishes with a notable weave of acidity, which are worthy of the ‘soul’ which gives the restaurant its title.
These may include antipasti of hand-picked crab with sea urchin and sweet red onions, primi of acquarello risotto with wild garlic, mussels and Grana Padano Riserva cheese, and a signature secondi of 21 days dry-aged beef fillet tagliata with marrow bones, buffalo blue cheese and sharp salsa verde.
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