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New on Wine List Confidential: Coq d’Argent
Coq d’Argent – Wine List Confidential Score: 89.6
Headed up by one of the most experienced sommeliers in London, Olivier Marie, formerly chief wine curate at L’Oranger under Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing, this is a serious humdinger of a selection.
Running to over 60 pages, with almost the same number of wines offered by the glass, the classically arranged list (by country and region) culminates, charmingly, with a final section highlighting wines which may have been ‘overlooked’ given the breadth of the printed vinous galaxy.
Although Marie’s list is an exercise in globetrotting, Marie’s preference appears to be for wines with a backbone of acidity, reflected in the extensive listings of whites from the Loire Valley, Chablis, Germany and Austria.
Service is on the money and while margins applied may feel punchy, the famous rooftop location with terraces and a very decent cocktail bar make it all memorably worthwhile.
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