Hackney’s smallest wine bar opens in barbershop

The dynamic duo behind Michelin-starred Hackney restaurant Pidgin have opened a wine bar in the London borough that doubles as a barbershop.

James Ramsden, Ajax Kentish and Sam Herlihy

Dubbed Enfant Terrible, according to owners James Ramsden and Sam Herlihy, the bar offers “a gonzo take on the tiny wine bars of Paris where you can eat a tin of smoked oysters and some Epoisses while drinking a bunch of wines”.

With just a dozen bar stools, those wanting a seat will have to arrive early. The wine list will change daily, with glasses starting from just £4.50. Among the drops currently on offer are a Lambrusco from Modena, and English sparkling wine from Kent, a Sicilian Grillo and a Treixadura-Palomino blend from Galicia.

The red selection has a Spanish leaning, with the bar currently pouring a Monastrell from Jumilla, a Tempranillo from Sierra de Gredos, a Souson from Ribeiro and a red blend from Mallorca.

Enfant Terrible will also serve a small selection of seasonal cocktails, including a barrel-aged Negroni, an Applejack Manhattan, a Tarte Tatin Sour made with Calvados, apple, lemon and thyme bitters; and the I’m Jim Morrison, I’m Dead, featuring rye whiskey, oloroso, maraschino liqueur and toasted pecan bitters.

Playing on the owners’ culinary roots, the bar will serve indulgent snacks like a Croque Monsieur stuffed with sausage, Epoisses, pickled onion and red wine sauce; truffled Tunworth with brioche, endive, orange and caramelised shallots.

Also on offer will be tins of smoked oysters with chili and lime, mutton tartare, and Cognac caramel brownies, with all dishes costing between £4-8. 

The Greenwood Road bar, run by Spuntino’s Ajax Kentish, is a short walk from Ramsden and Herlihy’s successful set menu only restaurant Pidgin. Enfant Terrible is open Thursday to Sunday from 6pm to 11pm.