Colgin: making ‘Burgundy’ wines in Napa

Napa winery Colgin Cellars is seeking to shed its ‘cult’ halo and become better known as a producer of terroir-specific wines.

Ann Colgin

“We are more like Burgundy, not Bordeaux, because our mission is really to showcase these specific sites,” said winery owner Ann Colgin, referring to its three unique sites – Cariad, Tychson and IX estate – in Napa Valley, California.

Speaking at a media luncheon hosted by Altaya Group, the female vintner who has turned the St Helena winery into a California cult classic, is consciously shying away from Napa’s big and masculine Cabernet image.

“Though the wines are all Cabernet based, there’s a difference of percentage used and the sites are very distinctive. We focus on the land to make wines that are beautifully balanced, and can reflect a sense of place,” she explained. “Essentially wines of a feminine touch”.   

The size of Côte d’Or in Burgundy, Napa has a more diverse range of soils compared with its Burgundian counterpart, noted Paul Roberts, Master Sommelier and winery COO, during the luncheon. “Burgundy has 28 soil types, we have 52 different soils,” a detail he highlighted to stress the region’s potential to make terroir-driven wines. 

“A lot of people compare Napa to Bordeaux because of grape varieties, and I truly believe Napa is the greatest place in the world to produce Cabernet.”

Colgin wines

“It has been consistently producing world-class Cabernet without huge vintage swings,” he continued. He added that Napa’s Cabernet-based reds over the years have remained critics’ favourites, mostly noted for their perfumes, texture and finesse.

‘Cariad’, a red made from vines planted in 1980s from a 2.5 hectare vineyard, has the least amount of Cabernet in the blend, varying from 50% to 55% depending on different vintages. The rest is Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

‘IX Estate’, a wine made from vineyards at a higher elevation, 1,150 to 1,350 feet above sea level, has an intense nose of perfume and fruit intensity. Another gem from the winery’s portfolio presented at the luncheon is a pure Syrah, created as a result of owner Ann’s love for the wines of Hermitage in the Rhône.