Uncorked: Michele Pompei

Hailing from the small town of Cannara in the beautiful province of Perugia, Michele Pompei started his career in casual local pizzerias before graduating to working in fine dining restaurants – including the former one Michelin starred Ristorante La Bastiglia – as well as training in the organic Di Filippo Winery owned by his brother-in-law, Roberto Di Filippo. After 10 years as a sommelier and two years as a restaurant manager, Pompei moved to Hong Kong in 2012 and has been with upscale Italian restaurant Operetta since its opening in September this year. He speaks to dbHK about championing small Italian wine producers and never being afraid to take risks.

What vintage are you?

1976. Not a great one for wine sadly, with a lot of rain and low temperatures.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

It wasn’t a bottle but a barrel of Grechetto fermenting in my brother-in-law’s winery several years ago. The aromas were so new and unusual for me and I realized then that I wanted to know so much more about wine. I’m still in the same situation, always looking to learn something new!

What would you be as a wine?

Definitely something very rustic and sour.

Where are you happiest?

My happiness is always related to people, food and wine. So I should say at home with my family and my friends with a lot of good food and good wines on the table!

The fresh, seasonal dishes at Operetta

What’s your greatest vice? 

I am really greedy!

Best advice you ever got?

I’ve never had anything specific but my experience in life and work has taught me to never be afraid about taking risks.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Il San Lorenzo 1997 from Fattoria San Lorenzo.

What’s the best and worst thing about the wine business?

The best one is that it’s impossible to stop learning about wine – there’s always something new to try.

The worst aspect is that some people only consider the big brands of wine and think that if there aren’t any big names in a wine list then it’s a waste of time reading it. They don’t know what a great experience they are missing!

What’s on your wine bucket list?

Lots!

Barolo Acclivi 2000, Comm. G. B. Burlotto

Montefalco Rosso Riserva (any vintage is fine), Fattoria di Milziade Antano

And all the bottles by many small producers that do an amazing job:

Francesco Mariani of Cantina Raìna in Umbria

Togni Rebaioli in Val Camonica

Stefano Amerighi in Cortona

Ferrandes in Pantelleria

La Staffa in Marche

Il Marroneto and Le Ragnaie in Montalcino Pietracupa, Nanni Copè, Ciro Picariello, Foradori, Girolamo Russo, Gianfranco Fino, Giovanni Montisci, Dettori Podversic, Vodopivec and many many others – I could stay here and keep going all day long…

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

Five people:

Giovan Battista Burlotto, I know he died a century ago but his vision on wine marketing was so clear that can be considered modern and current even now:

Madame Clicquot Ponsardin for the same reasons

Dom Perignon so he could finally tell me where he learned the art of fermentation in bottle

Romano Levi, famous producer of one of the best grappa. He was one of the nicest and kindest people I have ever met in my life

My friend Alessandro who doesn’t know anything about wine, but he’s always gives a good argument and someone who thinks differently to you is always important and fun to have when you’re having dinner.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)

80. I’m never really satisfied.

Which wine would you like served at your funeral?

Everything that was left in my wine cellar. But I think I’ll drink everything before I die, so nothing. Sorry.

Operetta, One Pacific Place, 112 L1, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; 2115 8080