Uncorked: Sam Lau

Sam Lau, the beverage director of the newly opened Skye bar and restaurant perched atop Hong Kong’s Park Lane Hotel, broke numerous cultural and language barriers and joined the team at the two Michelin starred Le Cinq at George V Four Seasons Hotel in Paris to become the first Chinese sommelier. He then returned to Hong Kong to work at Caprice at the Four Seasons just as it gained its third Michelin star. Lau speaks to dbHK about dining with Hans Astrom and the first bottle he fell in love with in Burgundy.

What vintage are you? 

1979. Unfortunately, it’s not that easy to find a good wine from then!

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

This is one of my favourite memories. Many years ago when I was working at Le Cinq restaurant in Paris, Eric Beaumard, the director and sommelier, took me under his wing and invited me to Burgundy. The first bottle I had was a Domaine Coche-Dury Les Perrieres 2007. I’ll never ever forget it. It opened my eyes to one of the best wine regions in the world.

What would you be as a wine?

Anything from Burgundy. I love the delicate, elegant styles. I’m not flashy so maybe I’d pick somewhere without a big production. Maybe something like Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot from Domaine de la Vougeraie in Premeaux, just south of Nuits St Georges.

Biggest vice?

Wine. All forms of it. I especially have a weakness for South African wine ever since I was able to stay at Klein Constantia for two nights and have dinner with Hans Astrom. This is another unforgettable and unusual experience that I count myself lucky for having.

Where are you happiest?

In the restaurant, speaking to customers and finding out what wines they like.

Best advice you ever got?

Beaumard once told me that in a restaurant, you always need to be professional and be prepared. Keep improving and always expand your knowledge and tasting.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

Nothing that’s too famous because you can always find them again. Perhaps anything aged from the Northern Rhone or Loire Valley which you can’t find too much of in Hong Kong

What’s the best and worst thing about the wine business?

The wine industry in Hong Kong is so big and it’s a free market so there are no secrets – you can find anything. This can be both a good and bad thing! Also consumer knowledge is going up and so it’s more fun to present more options to them. Newer regions are also becoming increasingly well-known and the market has expanded rapidly.

What’s on your wine bucket list?

Anything from Domaine Armand Rousseau of Gevrey-Chambertin. Maybe the 2005 because I’m willing to be patient and wait.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

Firstly, my mentor Eric Beaumard. Then Fabio Masi, director of Il Lago Restaurant and head sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, Geneva. Il Lago is one of the best restaurants in Switzerland.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)

I still want to keep improving so I’ll say 95 points. I’ve reached a certain point already and I’m almost there but I’m not quite 100.

Which wine would you like served at your funeral?

The same bottle that I fell in love with. Domaine Coche-Dury Les Perrieres 2007. It’s the bottle I started with and I want to share its beauty with my friends and family.