South Africa’s scattergun planting is ‘risky’

While South Africa is winning praise for its experimental approach to grape growing, one winemaker believes this scattergun approach is “risky”.

Glenelly’s chief winemaker Luke O’Cuinneagain

Speaking to the drinks business during a recent visit to London, Luke O’Cuinneagain, chief winemaker of Glenelly in Stellenbosch said:

“I love the spirit of experimentation in South Africa and think it’s great that winemakers are planting an array of varieties all over the country but it’s important to stay focused.

“It’s risky to try to succeed with everything everywhere – I don’t think you can get away with it, but we’re starting to see new varieties thriving in certain areas.

“Fantastic Grenaches are coming out of Piekenierskloof for example, which has inspired me to make a Grenache at Glenelly one day. We’re also having a lot of success with white Rhône varieties Marsanne and Roussanne.

Glenelly’s vineyards in Stellenbosch

“I think the varieties to watch in South Africa are Verdelho and Assyrtiko. There’s great potential for Greek and Portuguese varieties in South Africa as their climates are not too dissimilar to ours.

In terms of popular varieties, O’Cuinneagain revealed that consumers are asking for Pinotage and Chenin Blanc, but he’s stayed true to Glenelly’s French roots.

“We’ve stuck to Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay as our soils work best with them,” he told db.

“We recently launched a single varietal Cabernet Franc as we get a great expression from the grape from our land. It used to be a curiosity in South Africa but is popping up more as a single varietal wine now, though Petit Verdot is still niche.

“For a new variety to become popular in South Africa winemakers have to collectively get behind it in order for it to get recognised and have an impact.

“As winemakers we love experimenting but consumers don’t always know a lot about the more niche wines we make, so you have to ask yourself whether it’s commercially viable,” he added.

O’Cuinneagain also revealed that he’d love to make a wine like Vega Sicilia Unico Reserva Especial, which is a blend of outstanding vintages like Krug Grande Cuvée.

“I think it’s a great idea as some vintages aren’t ready when young but when you blend three together it can make the wine far more approachable and gives you incredible flexibility,” he said.