New on Wine List Confidential: Portland

Portland – Wine List Confidential Score: 93.2

Like a majestic bird of prey hunting for the choicest quarry, the Portland team homes in on the most exciting, characterful bottles from the wide, wide world of wine and plucks them singly, with a confident, uncompromising swoop.

What this perhaps laboured metaphor is getting at is that the list at Portland, while brief, is packed with intriguing drinking options, representing the finest artisanal producers, wheresoever in the world they might reside.

The list changes monthly, with around 50 labels at any one time. Clearly organised under the headings ‘Textbook’ (pleasingly Partridgean), ‘Special’ and ‘Leftfield’ (the latter broken down in to single-bottle examples of ‘Orange Wine’, ‘Skin Contact’ and ‘Oxidative’), the list allows diners to try almost everything by the glass.

Those wishing to keep it classical might plump for a chalky, lemony ‘Tuffo’ 2015 Vouvray from the talented Damien Pinon (£42) or a structured, semi-serious Renato Ratti, ‘Battaglione’ Barbera 2014 (£38).

More geeky stuff includes the beautifully poised David Franz Long Gully Road Semillon from Barossa – made from c.129-year-old Maderia clone Semillon bush vines, or an orange Pinot Noir from Stapleton & Springer in the Czech Republic (£38).

A separate single bottle list represents a diverse bunch of some of the more famous names and historic vintages. It’s a thrilling collection offered at a generous margin to the diner –eg, 2001 Vouvray Marc Bredif for just £65 and 1998 Château Balestard claret for £58.

To view the full Portland Wine List Confidential entry, including individual category scores and wine recommendations, click here.

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