db Eats: Native

db’s resident foodie Lucy Shaw heads to wild food specialist Native in Covent Garden for punchy wood pigeon kebabs and silky sage & apple Old Fashioneds.

The concept: Native is the first fixed site of dynamic duo Ivan Tisadall-Downes and Imogen Davis. Self taught chef Ivan cut his teeth working with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall at The River Cottage, then, after a brief stint at wine merchant Jascots, started flogging moreish pigeon kebabs at a street food stall in Hackney.

Imogen meanwhile, was busy running her family falconry business until the pair decided to search for a permanent address following a successful stint of pop-ups and supper clubs. Striking upon a tiny former bead shop in Covent Garden, they opened Native at the beginning of the year – a tough time to launch a wild food restaurant specialising in game and foraged ingredients.

wood pigeon kebab, photo credit: Emma Louise Layla

The décor: A stone’s throw from The Barbary in Neal’s Yard, the tiny space is maximised by white walls and blond wood. Fur throws hang over chairs, giving Native a clean, Nordic feel in keeping with its natural ethos. The eclectic soundtrack spans everything from Paul Simon to Jimi Hendricks.

Upstairs there is room for just a few tables and a four-seater counter, by far the best seats in the house and worth arriving early for. Up at the counter you’re so close to the action you’re practically eating in the sink, giving you the chance to chat to Ivan as he works his magic.

All the thrills and spills of kitchen life are played out here – at one point Ivan is branded by a pan and is in visible pain, but gallantly soldiers on with the dinner service.

The food: It’s all about game at Native, so the restaurant comes into its own at this time of year when the likes of grouse and partridge are in season. Ivan works with seasonal British produce from farmers markets, with much of the meat coming from the South Downs.

In keeping with its seasonal ethos, the menu is tweaked daily to reflect what the pair can get hold of, from heritage carrots with a basset blue cheese dip to Yorkshire grouse with fermented cream, berries and heritage beets. Starters range from £5-8, while mains a reasonably priced at £10-15.

baked celeriac

A trio of smoked ham hock croquettes with burnt apple béarnaise were as salty, crunchy and comforting as you would hope them to be albeit drier than their creamy Spanish equivalents, while a painterly plate of baked celeriac with goat’s curd, parsley purée and seeds had a wonderful autumnal earthiness to it.

Signature dishes: No trip to Native would be complete without trying Ivan’s signature wood pigeon kebab. Requiring a GCSE in origami to skillfully fold, the modest-sized dish offered an explosion of flavours, from the juicy, perfectly pink meat to the assertive spice from the harissa and purple tang from the gooey beetroot hummus and nutty crunch from the pumpkin seeds.

It’s a dish worth returning for alone – I wish I’d ordered one to myself rather than having to share it.

While the South Downs venison with creamy cauliflower purée, a tangle of onion rings and piquant salsa verde will delight hardcore carnivores, I found myself preferring the elegance and delicacy of a prettily presented plaice dish with burnt cucumber, seaweed mayo and tempura radish.

Crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, the fish sang when slathered with the unctuous mayo enlivened by tiny cubes of sour apple, reminding me of the kind of ensemble Texture made its name for.

Berkshire raspberries with meadowsweet cream; Sage & Apple Old Fashioned

The drinks: In keeping with its local ethos, Native shines a light on English wine, offering Three Choirs Classic Cuvée from Gloucester as its sparkler and Bolney Pinot Noir by the glass. Also on pour is a modest selection of wines from France, Italy and Spain starting at £4.50 a glass, including a zippy Albariño from Rías Baixas and a juicy Nero d’Avola from Sicily.

The cocktails are perhaps more interesting than the wines, particularly their twist on an Old Fashioned made with apple cider brandy and sage syrup, which was so good I ordered a second on the spot. The Natvie Negroni with English vermouth and sea buckthorn is not for the faint hearted but will certainly blow away the cobwebs.

Who to know: Look out for Imogen on arrival – she’s incredibly friendly, will guide you through the menu, and, if you’re lucky, will treat you to heroic tales of internet sensation Rufus the hawk; Wimbledon’s favourite pest controller. 

Don’t leave without: Trying the Kent ants served on a slab of wood before dessert. Pop one of the critters in your mouth and revel in the citric explosion that follows. Also keep an eye out for celebrities – on our visit we shared a coveted counter spot with Made in Chelsea’s Stevie Johnson.

Last word: The arrival of Native on London’s culinary scene is very exciting. Ivan is a seriously talented chef who will go far. His great skill is combining vitality of flavour and all the rustic comfort of home cooking with the painterly presentation and technical prowess of a Michelin-starred site. It will be fascinating to see what the pair do next – there is already talk of taking over the restaurant at the Whitechapel Gallery, with a tasting menu concept being mooted.

Native, 3 Neal’s Yard, London WC2H; Tel: +44 (0)20 3638 8214