Uncorked: David Chan

David Chan is the wine director for Winebeast Hong Kong – a wine retailer, bistro and café in Wan Chai which was one of the first Hong Kong restaurants to champion natural wine and to offer diners the chance to enjoy wine at the retail price. He speaks to dbHK about romancing in France with a bottle of Dom Perignon 1966 and his fear of the world running out of wine.

What vintage are you?

1956. It was a terrible year! In Bordeaux there was a very cold winter and everything froze on the vine.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

When I was in my early 20s, I was in France and dating a young French lady. I was desperate to impress her and so I went and bought a bottle of Champagne and didn’t know that the merchant had told me to buy a bottle of Dom Perignon 1966! I thought it was outrageously expensive – now I know why! I was a hopeless romantic in those days.

What would you be as a wine?

I would be a cheerful wine and one you’d like to share with friends. A bit of complexity but on the whole, a sunny and easy going type. A Californian Pinot Noir perhaps?

What is your great vice?

Wine and food!

Best advice you ever received?

Follow your taste and don’t drink just by the label.

Most overused word?

A word used by other people in this business is ‘terroir’. It’s become a fashionable word, a magic buzzword which can be used to hide a wine’s faults. There is truth in it obviously, but a wine is more than just where it came from.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

None. I wouldn’t save any. Wine is not a matter of life or death. It’s a commodity, a special commodity of course. But it’s there to be drunk!

What’s the best and worst thing about the wine business?

The best thing is that it allows you to meet very nice people from all over the world – it’s so rewarding hosting winemakers in Hong Kong and showing them by restaurant. Also working with my team!

The worst thing is to think there may be no more wine one day – the influence of climate change and the crazy prices demanded by some producers. Also it’s sad to think that some small wineries get taken over by large corporations.

What’s on your wine bucket list?

A bucket list? I have plenty! There are so many great wines still to be explored. I recently had the great pleasure to meet Eddie and Yannick Feraud from Chateauneuf-de-Pape working with old vine Grenache. A great team, producing wonderful wines and still off the radar in this part of the world.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

My friends. Wine is made for enjoying with people you love.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)

96 or 98. Things are going well.

Which wine would you like served at your funeral?

Champagne. It would be a celebration. I’ve been very blessed with life!