dbHK eats: Rhoda

One of the most hyped 2016 restaurant openings, Nathan Green’s new venture is a return to British comfort food in honour of his grandmother. Pining for the Old Country, dbHK went along to see what all the Instagram fuss was about.

The concept: Solid British food in Hong Kong’s warehouse-ridden bit of Sai Ying Pun which is now having a gourmet makeover, thanks to the likes of Rhoda and Test Kitchen setting up camp.

Rhoda is a collaboration between Hong Kong’s plain talking yet humble chef, Nathan (Nate) Green and Yenn Wong, CEO of the JIA Group and is one of Hong Kong’s most anticipated restaurant openings of this year.

The décor: Somehow, Rhoda does a brilliant job of making a Hong Kong industrial building look warm and inviting. Despite the usual exposed pipes and metalwork being on display, the lighting is muted and there are separate, cloistered-off rooms for private diners. A particular favourite area – The Barber Room – pays homage to Green’s pogonophilia and love of tattoos. In fact, a word on the staff ‘décor’, as most male staff members sport excellent beard and tattoo combinations, with special prizes going to Green and the helpful general manager, Marc Nagel who look like they’re cut from the same lumberjack cloth.

Snack goals: Chicken liver cream with lotus root crisps

The food: Firstly, the beauty of Rhoda is that the menu changes so often, you’re unlikely to have the same thing twice. The other beauty is that if you have a hankering for something someone posted on Instagram which isn’t on the menu, then Green and his team will kindly whip it up if available ingredients allow.

Anyone who has a wistfulness of English pub food will delight in Rhoda, only Rhoda certainly raises the bar when it comes to ‘British comfort food.’ Firstly, a board of homemade bread made with Suntory Dark Ale and seaweed butter came out which immediately answered everyone’s plaintive cry of where to get decent bread in Hong Kong.

Then, the award for one of the most imaginative – and delicious – amalgamations of Cantonese/British cuisine must go to Green’s chicken liver cream with lotus root crisp – “a snack you could eat while watching the footie,” was a remark made by a fellow Brit.

The rillettes of Mangalica pig head and shoulder with pineapple chutney served as a meaty reminder of Green’s time as a butcher. Mangalica is a Hungarian breed of pig which rather adoringly grows a thick, sheep-like coat which made me feel momentarily sorry for the woolly pig’s (wig’s?) fate until I started eating it and revelled in the saltiness of the rillettes contrasting with the sweet tang of the chutney.

More carnivorous courses included free range roast chicken in a spring onion and ginger dressing from Brinks Farm in New Zealand where the chickens are essentially allowed to go wherever they like, whenever they like and the mighty Hawke’s Bay lamb which is slow-cooked for 12 hours until meltingly succulent and served up with a rich stew of vegetables and fresh herbs in a large pot – just like Granny used to make.

Desserts acted like bowl-shaped passports back to childhood with the chocolate, mint and marshmallow a complex delight of caramelized marshmallows, chocolate cream, green pea pureé and crunchy broken chocolate and popping candy which has never made picking up a spoon so fun.

Worth the wait: 12-hour slow cooked Hawkes Bay lamb shoulder – order 48 hours in advance

Drinks: Green’s brother Adam, formerly of LDN Cru and Roberson’s Wine in London and founder of soon-to-be-launched Bottle Shock in Hong Kong is behind the wine list which includes plenty of pet nat and grower Champagne (much the rage in town at the moment), as well as an extensive list of Old and New World wine by glass, carafe and bottle.

Cocktail lovers will be soothed by the likes of Old Fashioneds, French 75s and Bloody Marys and whisky enthusiasts will meet their match with a diverse range of American, Japanese and Scotch offerings.

Verdict: If the reason that Rhoda seems comforting and homely and where you might find yourself pouring out woes to a passing staff member it’s because Green’s whole emphasis is to create a family-like atmosphere with unfussy but well-executed food.

After dinner, Green joined for a post-work drink and explained that Rhoda is named after his grandmother, a talent in the kitchen herself and who has sadly passed away but not before hearing the news of Rhoda’s opening. Cue, hugs all round and a glass raised to the woman who inspired the whole story.

Judging by Rhoda’s consistently booked up schedule, this is one Hong Kong restaurant which truly deserves its hype.

Rhoda, G/F Upton, 345 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Wan, 2177 5050