Q&A with Kazuki Usui of Domaine Senkin

Kazuki Usui represents the 11th generation of (Domaine) Senkin Shuzo, one of the oldest kura (breweries) in Japan and has looked after the sake production since 2003 after he had completed a stint as a wine sommelier and educator. Using his newfound skills of tasting and championing his prefecture’s indigenous sake rice and water, Kasuki has created a ‘new generation’ of sake while still maintaining the traditional methods passed on from his family. Kazuki’s sake is now one of the most sought-after in the world and dbHK sat down with him to discover more about the unusual world of Japan’s most popular drink.

Kazuki Usui with one of his beloved sake bottles at the China Club

You are the 11th generation at Senkin Shuzo. How does it feel to have so much tradition and history at the Shuzo?

I hope it is not just for one generation only, but a sustainable tradition that we can pass onto future generations. In order to make our sake still relevant and pass on the baton to other generations, we will have to try new approaches while keeping the traditions. Our brewery was founded in 1806 in Tochigi prefecture, making it one of the most established breweries in Japan.

What is your vision for Senkin Shuzo? 

When I took over, I never wanted to be a regular sake brewer, following the same recipes that the other brewers follow. To make a difference, I realized that the separate ingredients were the most important elements, which prefecture the rice came from for example, or the mineral content of the water which can drastically alter the taste.

I started following the Domaine concept which ensures that all rice we use comes from our Tochigi prefecture and we have also switched our sake making method to kimoto, a very traditional and old sake brewing style which takes twice as much time and effort as the normal method, sojuko moto which involves the use of commercially available lactic acid and cultivated yeast. Kimoto is a methodical cultivation of natural lactic acid bacteria and yeast to create the yeast starter mash, moto shubo. Our Domaine concept also means we brew our sake with the same water that grew the rice in the first place.

As we are now known for our distinctive style of sake, we will keep moving forward to improve the quality of our sake and take up more challenges.

From your previous experience working as a wine sommelier, how would you describe your own rediscovery of Japanese sake and have you been able to draw any similarities between the two beverages: wine and sake?

Usually sake-makers do not pay as much attention to ingredients, compared to winemakers. That is why I started following the concept of the Domaine.

A similarity between sake and wine is that they taste best when enjoyed with meals and some lighter styles can be drunk as an aperitif.

In your own words, what is the most important ingredient in the making of sake and which is the most critical step in controlling the quality and style of sake?

Rice and also water, in the same French concept of terroir where locally produced ingredients will make a unique product.

For us, we attach importance to the early stage of the sake-making process, such as washing and soaking. It seems like a plain process but it is actually very important.

If you had to liken your sake to a style of wine, which would you say?

Senkin is like an American Pinot Noir in general. Different expressions of the same central ingredient.

What is your vision for sake as a beverage category, in Japan and outside of Japan? 

Sake could be a bigger part of drinkers’ lives than it is at the moment. Outside of Japan, people tend to purchase drinks that match with the food they are eating whereas in Japan, sake is likely to be chosen for the popularity of the brand.

If you weren’t doing this job, what would you like to be doing?

I would go back to my wine days and be a wine sommelier or educator. But a particular vision of mine is to see French people enjoy my sake in the same way they do with their own wine so I will work hard to make this happen!