Newton: Chardonnay is my blank canvas

Hardys’ understated chief white winemaker, Tom Newton, custodian of top drop Eileen Hardy Chardonnay, believes the variety to a “canvas” for his creativity.

Eileen Hardy Chardonnay dating from 1986 to 2014

Speaking during a historic vertical tasting of Eileen Hardy Chardonnay dating back to 1986 in London last week, Newton said:

“Chardonnay gives you a canvas – there are so many ways you can influence the style of the wines – you have a broad palette to work with and can add interest, complexity and texture,” he said.

“People talk about minimum intervention but as soon as you plant a vine you’re influencing the outcome.”

Hardys’ chief white winemaker Tom Newton

Newton admitted that an identical tasting would never be able to be held again as the company had donated “the last of the best old bottles” for the event.

During the tasting, he told an audience peppered with MWs about how his winemaking style had evolved over the last few decades.

“Burgundy was on my mind when I started making this wine and I introduced barrel fermentation in the late ‘80s. I had to build up the texture, complexity and interest, otherwise I’d be making dull wines.

“In the ‘90s I wanted to move the wines in a more drinkable direction. I didn’t introduce malolactic fermentation until 1997,” he said.

“Different regions bring things to the blend – from Yarra Valley you get sweet lemon curd and creaminess, while Tasmania brings persistent acid and juiciness. For me, the defining character of these wines is the sweet fruit, peaches and cream and lemon curd flavours that make them incredibly drinkable,” he added.

On the subject of oak Newton took a bold stance. “I’m not scared of oak and am happy to use it on my Chardonnays. I don’t shy away from new French oak and believe char adds interest.”

“We use six different oaks with different levels of charring and match them to vineyards that may need more sweetness or structure,” he said.

He admitted that with the rise of global warming that the growing cycle has shifted a couple of weeks forward, and both rain and vintage variation are more prevalent.

Despite the challenges of Mother Nature, Netwon was happy to report that Hardys is selling more Eileen Hardy Chardonnay today than ever before, particularly at home and in Asia. He also declared the 2002 vintages one of the best he’s ever made.