New Zealand needs to build regionality and specialist varieties, debate hears

New Zealand must promote both grape varieties and its varied regionality if it is to continue its success, according to a recent debate.

Speaking at the event which was organized by Hatch Mansfield and New Zealand brand Villa Maria recently, Hatch Mansfield managing director Patrick McGrath MW said the country needed to look beyond Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and embrace new regions in order to grow and build on its reputation.

A strategy whereby seven or eight growers band together and tie the grape variety to a region – as had happened with Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough and Pinot Noir in Central Otago – was likely to provide the best mix, the debate found, as it would also provide a clear ladder for people to trade up.

“Don’t loose faith with grape varieties, but it’s got to have more complexity than that,” the audience was told. “If you don’t drill down and get more granular with your regionality, someone will steal your usp.”

Peter McCrombie MW agreed that other countries “would kill” for the brand recognition New Zealand enjoyed, but although regionality and sub-regionality was at present “irrelevant” – except in the case of Marlborough – producers needed to keep it in the background and build up the idea of regionality gradually.

“The average consumer thinks Sauvignon Blanc equals Marlborough, equals New Zealand and they don’t give a damn about regionality. But slowly, gently, we can make it clear – not too much, too loudly – but so that the average consumer learns more,” he said. “Should more emphasis on regionality be on the label? Yes, we need to inspire people to ask the question and initiate that conversation.”

He argued that as the industry grows in New Zealand, its continued success will be in making better wines, getting to grips with terroir and choosing the right varietal for the region.

“Hawkes Bay also has the ability to make Merlot-dominated blends that would give Bordeaux a run for their money, with a splash of Malbec as a secret tool to give a floral lift,” he said.

He also noted the elegance of Sauvignon Blanc from Nelson, which contrasted to those from Marlborough, the accessible, peachy Chardonnays from Gisborne and the potential presented by finding the “right” variety for Auckland, which excels in red Bordeaux-style blends.

However, Rebecca Gibb MW argued that regionality was only ever likely to be relevant for the 1% of consumers who are already ‘engaged consumers’ and New Zealand needed to capitalize on its natural variety of climate and geography to broaden its range of varietal wines. She said it needed to embrace Albariños from Gisborne, Chardonnay, Syrah and South Italian and Spanish varieties such as Godello.

“Grape varieties are easy to understand compared to regions and mark a natural transition that are easy for the consumer to understand,” she said. “If the 1% want to dig into regions and sub-regions, the information is there. But for most people, ‘Brand New Zealand’ is enough.”

There was a strong argument for New Zealand creating its own distinct styles of varietals that didn’t bear comparison to other countries and regions, led by big companies with the capacity and brand standing to invest, she added.

Joe Wadsack argued that with New Zealand punching above its weight of production it had created its own category largly on the back of creating fine wine and that was still of key importance. “What matters is not grape variety nor region, it is about selling New Zealand as a premium wine seller,” he said.

“It is more important to market New Zealand than to replant it,” he noted. “And the region comes second to someone saying “***ing hell, that wine is amazing!’,” he noted.

However McGrath warned winemakers against panicking.

“It is not about throwing the baby out with the bath water  – New Zealand has recognition and a price position that can trade people up and it is in a unique position,” he argued.

George Fistonich, owner of Villa Maria, joined the panel debating the future of New Zealand wine, and unveiled the producers super-premium single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, The Gravels Ngakirikiri from its vineyard in the heart of the Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay.

According to official figures released this week, New Zealand’s 2016 vintage is up 34% on last year’s crop, but still below the record-breaking 2014 harvest.