Lowder: ‘China has set the bar higher’

Head bartender of the Four Seasons in Seoul and one of the judges of the recent 2016 Chivas Masters global competition, Chris Lowder speaks to dbHK about his views on China as one of the world’s cocktail hubs.

Chris Lowder on the left with fellow Chivas Masters judges, Naren Young, Leo Robitschek and Dre Masso with the 2016 finalist, Alejandro Millan Ponce de Leon in the middle

Chris Lowder is one of the world’s most renowned bartenders, having scooped a ton of accolades for his previous venue, NoMad Hotel in New York City, where his bar team won a James Beard award for America’s Most Outstanding Bar Program in 2014, as well as Tales of the Cocktail’s Spirited Awards for World’s Best Hotel Bar in 2013 and America’s Best Restaurant Bar in 2014.

At a still comparatively young age, Lowder has also been recognised as NYC 30 Under 30 by Zagat in 2015 and one of America’s Best New Mixologists by Food & Wine Magazine in 2014.

Adding to his arsenal of impressive drinks-related wins Lowder is also fluent in Mandarin and Japanese and placed as a finalist in the 2014 Diageo World Class global bartending competition.

He is now head bartender at the Four Seasons in Seoul and manages the beverage service at the hotel’s six restaurants and bars.

As the dust has settled from the end of the Chivas Masters 2016 and Mexico’s Alejandro Millan Ponce de Leon has been named as the winner, dbHK spoke to Lowder about his views on Asia as a cocktail hub.

How has the Shanghai bar scene evolved since you’ve been living and travelling in Asia?

Every time I go to Shanghai, I’m seriously impressed. It has considerable diversity and knowledge among its bartenders and it’s comparable to the great cocktail centres such as New York, London, Singapore and Hong Kong.

Also, not just in Shanghai but across Asia, the cocktail industry has seen a big investment from bars and hotels to promote the local talent. There is also a fraternal vibe that’s sprung up, making bartenders reach out to each other and share ideas, and guest mixologists from all over the world come and bring their international influences.

How are bartenders pushing different categories or flavours in Shanghai?

Shanghai is driven by bartenders who push themselves creatively using local ingredients that you won’t necessarily find anywhere else. There’s also a high expat contingent in Shanghai that creates this insatiable thirst for continuously new and innovative drinks which are inspired by other cities but with a definite Asia angle. I had a Cucumber Sour made by the head bartender of Speak Low, Atsushi Suzuki and it was awesome.

Can you share any regional trends with us?

Branded ice! That came out of Asia, and it’s currently doing the rounds across the world. Bars and restaurants love it, and it’s a step up from coasters, matchbooks etc. Dante in New York is famous for doing it, but I believe 28 Hongkong Street in Singapore was doing it about three years ago. Social media went crazy about it and there’s even a ‘How To’ video on YouTube…

Why is now the time to hold a major cocktail competition in Shanghai?

It’s the perfect time to hold this competition in Shanghai. China has long embraced Chivas. In fact, when when I was 19 and visiting China, all that people were drinking were tea and Chivas. China has been given a shot on the world stage and has set the bar 10 times higher for the rest of us.

What do you look for in a good serve?

Charisma and being at ease in doing whatever it that they’re doing – no matter the pressure! That sells it far more for me than fancy ingredients or theatrical moves.

What advice would you give someone starting out in bartending?

It doesn’t matter where you are or what you do initially but write everything down that you think will be helpful later on – it could be an interesting ingredients lists or style of bartending. Also stay somewhere a long time to get your name out there. Be detail orientated, make the most of every opportunity and do your research. Learn about the brands you are using and what makes them so unique. It is hard work but the adventure is real.