Hungarian grapes to seek and savour

There is a lot of magic to be found in Hungarian wines. To appreciate them it helps to have some background knowledge about the Hungarian wine industry and some of its key players. The country boasts 22 wine regions and 63,000 hectares of vineyards that yield 2.2 million hectolitres of wine.

Hungary has been making wine for over two thousand years but has most recently become known for its sweet wine Tokaji. The domestic wine market in Hungary is to some extent driven by fashion and image.

For many years, wines aged in oak were an essential accessory for the image-conscious Hungarian and still command higher prices than unoaked wines today.

However, Hungary’s younger winemakers are breaking with tradition and are applying modern winemaking techniques to indigenous varieties like Olaszrizling, Furmint, which is enjoying something of a renaissance, and Kekfrankos.

The Wines of Hungary tasting in London on 23 June, which includes masterclasses hosted by Elizabeth Gabay MW and Caroline Gilby MW on volcanic wines and and introduction to the country’s drops, will explore Hungary’s top grape varieties that could pique UK palates and become new favourites in a competitive market that is forever seeing something new.

Read on for a round up of Hungarian grapes worth seeking out and savouring.

For more information on the Wines of Hungary tasting, click here.

Furmint

Furmint accounts for around 70% of the vines planted in Tokaji, and has also made a name for itself in the Somló region. It produces fine dry whites with high acidity, which can make them good for aging.

For dry wines the harvest usually starts in September, however a sweet wine specific harvest can start in the second half of October or even later.

The name Furmint may have been taken from the Hungarian word “froment” because of the characteristic gold colour of the wine. The origins of the grape are uncertain, but is possible that it was brought to Hungary in the 13th century during the reign of King Béla IV.

Furmint is Hungary’s most prized white variety. If you’re craving something unique, you should seek it out. Just like Chardonnay, winemakers can throw lots of tricks at Furmint to increase its complexity.

Olaszrizling

White wine lovers should look out for Olaszrizling, the most widely planted white variety in Hungary. While not related, the name means ‘Italian Riesling’.

Expect crisp, mineral/talc like aromas with traces of lemon and apple. It can be made several ways, with oak maturation or fermented in stainless steel, depending on the ripeness of the fruit being sourced and winemaker’s preferences.

Irsai Oliver

Irsai Oliver is a crowd pleaser, especially in hot weather, due to its refreshing, floral nature. The grapes is a relatively recent introduction to Central and Eastern European wine, and is formed of a cross breeding between the Pozsony and Pearl of Csaba varieties.

Developed in the 1930s for basic table wines, Irsai Olivér ripens early and easily and produces wines known for their perfumed, Muscat-like aromas. Irsai Olivér wines are typically light and refreshing, with a juicy tropical fruit character on the palate.

Egri Bikaver

Hungary has its own version of the Super Tuscan in Bikaver, which translates to “bull’s blood”. A true Egri Bikavér must meet strict specifications with the wine anchored by the ancient Kadarka variety, which is believed to have arrived during the Turkish invasion of the 16th century, either by the Turks themselves or by Serbs displaced by them. It is a difficult grape to vinify and has increasingly been replaced by Blaufränkisch, known locally as Kékfrankos.

Egri Bikavér must contain at least three of the following 13 grapes: Kadarka, Kékfrankos, Blauer Portugieser, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Menoire, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Turán, Bíborkadarka and the modern Austrian crossings Blauburger and Zweigelt. Bikaver wines are intensely concentrated and complex thanks to improved viticulture and winemaking techniques as well as the use of new oak maturation.

Egri Bikavér is one of the most famous and popular Hungarian red wines both domestically and abroad. Literally translating as “Bull’s Blood of Eger”, wines produced under this name sell between 75-85,000 hectolitres every year.

Kadarka

Kadarka is a red variety with herbaceous notes. Like the eucalyptus notes you find in Australian reds, the older the Kadarka vine is, the more herbaceous notes you will get in these wines. The best examples are made from vines planted well before the beginning of the 20th century.

Portugieser

Portugieser has a broad appeal due to its light alcohol content. Many people like red wines but it’s hard to find a lower alcohol red with a spicy character on the market. Thats what Portugieser knows best.

Kekfrankos

Kekfrankos is the grape variety of Hungary – hunt this red wine down. It is the most widely planted across Hungary because it adapts very well to all of Hungary’s climates. If you love a top-end Merlot, you’ll love Kekfrankos.

Cabernet Franc

Cabernet Franc has found its spiritual home in Villany region and perfectly suits the terroir, becoming a benchmark in Hungary of Villány.

By the year 2000 Villány had become one of the best quality regions in Hungary. In 2006 Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) guidelines were introduced. It is unusual to find non-blended Cabernet Francs on the shelves and this can be the solution.