Chef Francis Mallmann slams wine pairings

Acclaimed Argentine chef Francis Mallmann has slammed the concept of food and wine pairings, going as far as to say that he “hates” them.

Francis Mallmann isn’t a fan of food and wine pairings. Photo credit: Peter Buchanan-Smith

In an interview with Vogue magazine, Mallmann spoke of his dislike of the idea of having to find wines that harmonise with the flavours in the food you’re eating.

“I hate pairings. I just don’t believe in harmony with food, I like contrast. I like clashes in your mouth when you eat it,” he said. “I think pairings are silly. It’s boring. Obviously, I enjoy meat with a good Cab, I mean why not? But we can go a bit further than that,” he added.

Despite his lack of interest in food and wine pairings, Mallmann did reveal a love of California Cabernet to Vogue, citing Bond, Harlan, Screaming Eagle, Staglin and Stag’s Leap as his particular favourites. He also professed a love for California Pinot Noir.

As for what he cooks on a night off, Mallmann said that he keeps things simple with a dish of piping hot white rice with olive oil and garlic served with a red cabbage salad.

“I love the contrast, the acidity of the vinegar and then the rice. Again, I love contrast in my mouth, I don’t like harmony,” he said.

Known for his open-fire cooking as seen on the popular Netflix series Chef’s Table, Mallmann cooked for over 900 guests at this year’s Auction Napa Valley.

Whole roast whole chickens and 750 pounds of ribeye steak were cooked on an open flame inside fire pits filled with hot coals.

Mallmann runs Siete Fuegos and 1884 restaurants in Mendoza and consults for a number of different restaurants around the world.