Uncorked: Michel Roux Jr

Born in Kent in 1960, Michel Roux Jr is one of Britain’s best-known and best loved chefs. Aged 7, his father Albert opened Gavroche in Mayfair with his brother Michel. Roux began his culinary training in Paris in the ‘70s under renowned pastry chef Henri Hellegouarche. A decade later he returned to London to work with Pierre Koffman at La Tante Claire and later the Waterside Inn in Bray with his uncle. Roux took over the running of the two Michelin-starred Le Gavroche from Albert in 1993 where he continues to work. In addition, he runs Roux at the Landau at The Langham hotel in Marylebone and Roux Parliament Square. Roux has made a name for himself as a TV chef, appearing on MasterChef: The Professionals and Food and Drink. A keen marathon runner, he lives in Clapham with his wife Giselle. Their daughter Emily is also a chef.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

Being born into a French family, although I was brought up in England, I had a different perspective to the average English kid. I got to taste and smell wine from a young age, usually only a little sip and often watered down.

My magic moment came when I was about nine. My dad was hosting a dinner party at our house in the late ‘60s and asked me to come over and taste a wine he was about to serve.

He assured me that I’d like it because it was sweet. On first sip it tasted like cough medicine and I didn’t like it very much, but I had another sip and it dawned on me that it tasted a lot better than cough medicine and was really rather lovely. It turned out to be Château d’Yquem.

What would you be if you were a wine?

There’s a serious streak running through me so I’d say I was a claret from a good vintage that gets better with age. I’d be a wine that in order to really enjoy it, you’d need to fully understand it.

Where are you happiest?

In my kitchen. It’s where I spend most of my time. While I like relaxing in the South of France, there’s something equally peaceful about standing in front of a stove. I’m not one for lazing about. A lot of people find cooking therapeutic – it’s not the case for me as it’s work, but because I’m at ease with what I do, I’m relaxed at work – in fact, I don’t consider it work because I love it.

What’s your greatest vice?

Chocolate and fast cars, but not at the same time! I’m a member of the P1 club, which is a supercar club. I’m not a petrol head – for me it’s more about the beauty of the engineering and the elegance of the cars.

Best advice you ever received?

I’ve been lucky enough to have had a lot of great mentors throughout my life, none more so than my father. One of the best pieces of advice I received was from the illustrious pastry chef Henri Hellegouarche.

I was working for him as an apprentice in Paris in the ‘70s and he punished me for being late. I didn’t enjoy it at the time but it taught me a lesson and since then I’m never late for anything.

Best bottle of wine you’ve ever had?

I think the moment in time really matters and makes a huge difference to your appreciation of food and wine. Often the best drinking experiences are simple ones. I recently opened a bottle of Château Montrose 1990 with my wife over a Sunday roast chicken and it was divine.

It’s drinking so beautifully at the moment and has this Madeira-like almost caramel sweetness that comes to Bordeaux with age. I was lucky enough to have bought a few cases of the wine a while ago and it’s stunning.

Favourite wine memory?

My wife, daughter and I were recently invited to Tain l’Hermitage by Michel Chapoutier and he spoilt us rotten. We were only supposed to be popping in for a tasting and ended up spending four hours there. Michel is an incredibly generous man and he kept pulling out these mind-blowing bottles for us to try, from Ermitage Le Méal and La Mordorée from Côte-Rôtie to Les Granits from Saint-Joseph, all older vintages.

He gave me a bottle to take home, which I didn’t open until I got back. It was Hermitage 1991 – the year Emily was born. We still haven’t opened it yet. I love Rhône wines, they’re really food friendly. If you’re ever in a dilemma about what wine to pair with food, look to the Rhône.

Favourite wine region?

The Rhône would be up there as it’s so striking and diverse with its steep hills and different microclimates. Klein Constantia in South Africa’s Constantia Valley is also stunning. You get breathtaking views from the top of the hill, which I’ve run up a few times.

The vines at the top growing Muscat de Frontignan for Vin de Constance are on such steep slopes, it’s an amazing feat what young winemaker Matt Day achieves there keeping the tradition alive, and Vin de Constance just keeps getting better.

If you could only take one wine to a desert island, what would it be?

It would have to be white and cold so I’d take a bottle of my favourite Champagne – Krug – from a good vintage.

Michel with his chef daughter Emily

If you could only drink wine made from one grape for the rest of your life, what grape would you choose and why?

That’s a tough one. I’d probably go for Riesling as, at the dry end, you can get green flavours and good acidity, which pairs well with fish and seafood, it’s also a great apéritif. The off-dry Rieslings pair well with white meat and curry, and the sweet ones with desserts, so all my culinary needs would be met.

What’s the best and worst thing about the restaurant business?

The best part is seeing customers with a full belly and a big smile on their faces. The worst bit is the hours you have to put in and the sacrifices you have to make in order to succeed.

What wines are on your bucket list?

Cheval Blanc 1947 would be at the top. I’d also like to try more DRC but it’s astronomically expensive – the price does something to your brain and makes it harder to enjoy it. I’m keen to try more of the Bordeaux first growths from the ‘40s and ‘50s – the war years were magical years in Bordeaux.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party and what food and wines would you serve?  

Eric Cantona because he’s a legend and I’m a big Manchester United fan. He’s also a big eater and loves wine so would be a pleasure to cook for. My hero Auguste Escoffier would have to be there so I could pick his brain, along with Madame Lily Bollinger – anyone who has her philosophy on Champagne deserves a place at my table.

As for the food, I’d be keen to cook some of Escoffier’s most famous recipes like his peach melba, but I’d reinterpret them and give them a modern twist. I’d love to see what he thought of them. I’d also serve artichokes stuffed with duck livers, Madeira and truffles. We’d drink Bollinger, of course, and a fine red Burgundy.

Ultimate food and wine match?

A lot of people don’t know it, but Champagne pairs incredibly well with cheese. There’s this misconception that you have to pair cheese with red wine, but it goes much better with white. One of the best food and wine pairings I tried was a decanted bottle of Penfolds Grange from the ‘80s with jugged hare in a rich, velvety sauce finished with a dash of mustard. The savoury, gamey notes in the wine complement it perfectly.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)

It wouldn’t be 100 points as I’m never fully content – there’s always more I could be doing – I’m very self critical. I’d say a solid 94.