Taittinger: English fizz hasn’t impressed me yet

While Clovis Taittinger is excited about his new English sparkling wine project in Kent, he has admitted that thus far English fizz has failed to impress him.

Clovis Taittinger

Speaking exclusively to the drinks business at the London Wine Fair last week, Taittinger said:

“My overall impression of English sparkling wine is good but I don’t think the best have been made yet. The wines have great potential but are not at their peak.

“It will be interesting to watch how the industry evolves and watch the brands find their own niche. None have really impressed me yet – I think they can do better.”

Last December news emerged that Taittinger had bought a 69-hectare plot of farmland in Kent with the intention of producing high-end English sparkling wine under the Domaine Evremond brand.

The story soon spread around the world, whipping both the English and French press into a frenzy of excitement. Taittinger admitted to db that he was surprised by the extent of the coverage.

“I was surprised by the impact of the story in the UK – clearly lots of people are very curious about the project. Making wine in England is still seen like an adventure, but we’re adventurous people and we like a challenge.

“I’m excited about the prospect of making English sparkling wine but you have to be modest – it will be a steep learning curve.

“We have no preconceived ideas about what to expect. All we know is that we want to make a great wine,” he said.

“Making this wine is a gesture of friendship to the English and a way of showing our gratitude that the UK is Taittinger’s top export market.

“We’ll have to see what Mother Nature brings us but we want to make a wine in line with our philosophy in the feminine, elegant, pure and fresh Taittinger style,” he added.

As to whether Taittinger’s bold step will spur copycats, Taittinger said he “wouldn’t be surprised” if other Champagne houses jump on the bandwagon and that it was “good to be first”.

Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger and Patrick McGrath MW of Hatch Mansfield celebrate the news of Domaine Evremond in Kent

A day after the interview Champagne Pommery announced that it is to partner with Hampshire producer Hattingly Valley on an English sparkling wine with its first bottling expected in 2019 – ahead of Domaine Evremond.

Taittinger intends to make a range of 2-3 sparkling wines but they won’t be in bottle for another 7-8 years.

As to whether the growing international recognition of English sparkling wine poses a threat to Champagne, Taittinger didn’t seem ruffled.

“Champagne shouldn’t see English sparkling wine as a threat. Our worst enemies are ourselves – we should look at what we’re doing rather than following the competition. Champagne is a great product with a great history and identity,” he said.

“When you’re on top people are happy to attack you but you shouldn’t stoop to that level. Our job is to promote love, happiness and the pleasures of life,” he added.

With regards to the ongoing Prosecco boom, Taittinger described it as “an affordable answer to the global financial crisis”. “Champagne hasn’t lost the battle – it’s still the best way to say I love you.

“It’s an affordable luxury – you can drink the same wine as the Queen. There’s more magic, elegance and sexiness in it than in Prosecco,” he said.

As for the recent 2006 release of top drop Comtes de Champagne, Taittinger reported that sales were “strong” and that the prestige cuvée was being taken seriously as a fine wine, but that, happily, the majority is being bought to drink.