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Kentucky Bourbon in pictures
db’s Douglas Blyde flew to Kentucky with the winner of Jefferson’s Small Batch Bourbon barrel-aged cocktail competition, Jess Cheeseman, whose serve melds Jefferson’s, agave, apricot brandy and vermouth.
Jefferson’s founder, Trey Zoeller is an entrepreneur. Aged 11, he would shoot down mistletoe to sell door-to-door. Other jobs included clearing construction sites and hauling sides of beef.
Founded by Steve Thompson, renovater of Woodford ‘to bottle dreams’, Kentucky Artisan Distillery is home to Jefferson’s ‘experiments’ which ‘are all about the wood,’ says Zoeller.
Wood panels of Jefferson’s 1990 jeep echo the importance of barrels in raising Bourbon. It made its debut at the Kentucky Derby. Zoeller meanwhile escaped crowds for tarp fishing.
Jefferson’s home neighbours Dell Botanical gardens. ‘Bourbon wasn’t in vogue when Jefferson’s started 19 years ago; you couldn’t give it away!’ says Zoeller. ‘But we’ve seen 50% growth in three years.’
Zoeller created ‘Ocean’ after seeing bottles rock aboard the Ocean conservation ship. Subsequent barrels stowed at sea ‘suck in salt becoming super-caramelised as they cross the equator four times.’
Groth sees eight year old Bourbon finished in ‘sweated out’ casks formerly framing Oakville Cabernet. With tannic bite and huge legs this is steakhouse fayre. ‘A bourbon mattress with Cab comforter.’
Jefferson’s Chef Collaboration whiskey is designed with celebrity chef, Edward Lee to partner Korean fried chicken. The straight Bourbon and rye blend is ‘a seesaw of fruit then spice,’ says Zoeller.
A pit-stop to the home of Trey’s parents revealed what may be the world’s largest collection of pre-prohibition Bourbons, curated by his father, Chester, a Bourbon historian.
Chester’s trove includes a bottle from Old Taylor Distillery Co. Founded 1887 but derelict for nearly four decades, the massive site is set, optimistically to see some stills fired in a month.
‘You’ve got to dream big or die trying,’ says Zoeller as he appraises Taylor’s revived, original warehouse, where he may choose to store barrels.
Gin with mountain mint, orchard oranges and lemons, and home-grown botanicals will be released first. Founder, Colonel Taylor originally produced white corn Bourbon at the fanciful location.
The site is now named ‘Castle and Key’ on account of its battlements and key hole-shaped limestone bath reservoir.
Nearby, we visited impeccable by contrast, Woodford in Versailles, which evoked ‘Disneyland,’ said Zoeller. 1,500 guests visit here on a typical Friday.
Back in Louisville at Vendome Copper and Brass Works we saw at least six stills in production. ‘Will we end up with oversaturation’ Zoeller posited of the mushrooming of craft distilleries.
Finally, with Trey and Chester we took a trip to the Churchill Downs, ordering Mint Juleps. Zoeller is no stranger to equestrian adventures. ‘I was tricked into polo and now own three horses.’