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Uncorked: Jean-Marie Pratt
Recently relocated from Shanghai, Vienna-born Jean-Marie Pratt is head of wine for Sarment Hong Kong and has been part of the fine wine company since 2012. Jean-Marie cut his teeth under the tutelage of one of the most iconic sommeliers, Gerard Basset MS, MW, OBE, at Basset’s boutique hotel and restaurant chain, Hotel du Vin, and then, at the age of 23, became head sommelier at Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous three-Michelin starred restaurant in London. He speaks to the drinks business Hong Kong about the best aspects of the Asia wine industry and being happiest in the middle of nowhere.
What vintage are you?
1983. It was a good year for many places – overshadowed, perhaps, by 1982 in Bordeaux but I’ve had the good fortune to try many 1983 Bordeaux which are drinking well. Also for the Rhone – Hermitage and Chateauneuf-du-Pape – and Alsace and Mosel Rieslings. And finally not forgetting Madeira, I absolutely love Madeira.
What bottle sparked your love of wine?
I always come back to the same answer. It was the first structured wine tasting at my sommelier training school in Strasbourg in 2002 and it was the first time I had tasted wine with someone who was explaining how to taste it properly. It was a 1999 Roland Schmitt Altenberg de Bergbieten Riesling grand cru.
Where are you happiest?
Lost in nature, in the mountains or by the sea. I also love visiting vineyards in the wilderness where there is nothing else around, for example in Central Otago or Oregon. France and the rest of Europe are not removed enough for me; there are always towns and cities nearby. There is also no greater feeling than skiing in the early morning with no one else on the piste with you.
Best advice you ever received?
To always be modest.
Most overused word?
“To be honest.” I’ve always been told I talk too much, so I probably say too much of everything. Also a bad sommelier habit is to stick the word, “minerality” into wine descriptions and tasting notes because it’s easy and makes the wine sound fancier.
Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?
In 2003, I won the ‘Best Sommelier for Bordeaux Wine’ at my training school. It was a magnum of Chateau Haut-Brion 1995 and it’s because of this personal story attached to it that makes it very special to me..
What’s the best and the worst thing about the wine business?
We work in a fun industry, with restaurants and wine people – we drink nice wine and meet interesting people from all over the world that share the same passion. There is always a moment to drink a good glass of wine! We are quite fortunate, all of us who work in it.
The worst thing is probably too much eating and drinking and not enough exercise!
What’s on your wine bucket list?
A Madeira from the 18th or 19th century…
Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?
Aubert de Villaine (because I never had the chance to have a conversation with him), Gerard Basset, the philosopher Paul Draper and my eldest brother who enjoys fine wine almost as much as I do.
Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)
90/100.
Which wine would you like served at your funeral?
An Austrian Gruner Veltliner as I was born in Vienna…