Pinot Noir has ‘international appeal’

A recent Pinot Noir masterclass in Hong Kong revealed the potential for the grape to grow in lesser-known regions around the world, as advances in technology and global warming take hold.

International superstar: Pinot Noir can grow successfully in wildly differing parts of the world, given the right treatment.

Altaya Wine’s seventh ‘Passion for Pinot’ event focused on Pinot Noir’s “international appeal” and invited winemakers from Burgundy, Oregon and Marlborough to discuss their differing styles of winemaking from each region but also for future trends which could see Pinot Noir grown in newer areas.

Sam Weaver, winemaker of biodynamic estate, Churton in Marlborough, said: “As winemakers, we should be looking to different areas and their potential for Pinot. I’d venture that Southern England could become a very good site for growing Pinot Noir. It is geologically similar to Burgundy and unfortunate as it may be, the effects of global warming could see more favourable climactic conditions in this area. It already does fantastic still and sparkling white wines so Pinot Noir could find a nice home there.

“Also, what has been happening in Central and Eastern Europe is very exciting – think Hungary, Romania for example. They have had the traditions of winemaking for centuries but with recent investments in technology, they’ve been able to make huge leaps forward in wine production. They’re known in the UK but they don’t get as much exposure in this part of the world.”

Etienne de Montille of Domaine de Montille whose family has been making wine in Volnay since the 17^th century, agreed that although Burgundy is the historical “heart” of Pinot Noir, it can be difficult to balance alcohol and acidity when the climate is too warm and therefore cooler climates can produce more elegant styles.

Altaya’s ‘Passion for Pinot’ event explored 10 different expressions of Pinot Noir as reflections of the soil and winemaker ability

“There are still so many undiscovered areas for Pinot Noir, in more northerly regions. There is a strong identity in Hokkaido with some great experimental vineyards. Cooler climates help enormously with producing great Pinot Noir as they have less alcoholic wines which fit the current trends of drinking wine with lower alcohol volume.

Thierry Brouin of Domaine de Lambrays in Morey-Saint-Denis that it was up to the winemaker’s preference about winemaking styles, for example using whole bunch fermentation but it would be “prudent” to adapt the picking to the prevailing climactic conditions.

“Burgundy’s climate is very changeable as we’ve seen especially in recent years. The picking process can take too long and you can lose quality if you insist on using whole bunches. However, in warm years, the stems are riper than normal and using whole bunch clusters is coming back into fashion.”

Michael Etzel, winemaker, vineyard manager and managing partner of Oregon’s long established winery, Beaux Frères added: “Pinot Noir is a complete reflection of the soil and the winemaker’s hard work. As we’ve seen today, all of our vineyards have different identities, different soils, different expressions.

“And the ultimate objective of the winemaker surely is to express those differences to each of their best abilities, whether in cooler climates or warmer.”