db eats: Holborn Dining Room

Part of the sprawling Georgian-styled Rosewood Hotel complex near Holborn station in London, Holborn Dining Room is a somewhat hidden gem.

A first timer when I arrived at its doors on a weekday evening, with very few expectations, I was surprised to be met with an impressively opulent, dimly-lit space boasting chandeliers, reclaimed oak furnishings, antique mirrors and red leather upholstery, transporting me to 1950s Mad Men America. Its name had suggested a more casual setting, and while it is far from formal its high ceilings, striking art and imposing bar make for an impressive entrance. Given the building’s former life as the East Banking Hall of Pearl Assurance, its imposing aesthetic makes sense. Behind the scenes, Holborn Dining Room is operated by restaurateur Des McDonald, formerly CEO of Caprice Holdings (who manage The Ivy) and founder of the Vintage Salt restaurant group, Q Grill and most recently the Forest Restaurant and Cabin Bar on the roof of Selfridges.

Mac and cheese with smoked cheddar and garlic

Eyeing up its numerous seating areas I wonder if taking a pew at its bar, which stretches lazily through its cavernous interior, would be wise. I clock an intimate strip of stools set in front of the restaurant’s personal charcuterie cage, where you can drool over the restaurant’s vast array of hanging hams. However we ultimately take the more conventional route, settling down at a table in the centre of the 160-cover restaurant.

The launch of its new autumn menu has prompted my visit, with the prospect of 50 day aged Cornish beef and and mac and cheese with smoked cheddar and garlic proving too much of a temptation. Confirming its culinary credentials is head chef Calum Franklin, who began his career at Michelin-star restaurant Chapter One in Kent before working stints at London icons including The Ivy, Aurora at the Andaz Hotel, Indigo at One Aldwych Hotel and Roast in Borough Market. Introducing 24 new dishes for autumn, his focus on seasonal, British produce clear. Extending this commitment to its drinks list, Holborn lists its own house sparkling wine, produced by current shining lights of the English sparkling wine scene Gusbourne Estate, who were recently named English wine producer of the year at the 2015 IWSC Awards.

XL scallop with truffled wild mushrooms and lobster bisque

With a glass of Gusbourne Estate in hand, and having finished goggled at its stunning interior, I tuck into a perfectly pleasant and heartily-sized plate of Maldon smoked salmon with crab and spiced avocado puree. My other half meanwhile went for the more ambitious, and decidedly pricey, (£17) XL scallop with truffled wild mushrooms and lobster bisque. A truer test of the kitchen’s abilities, Franklin’s team pulled this creation off to perfection, the buttery bisque balancing delicately with the truffle so not to overpower the lightness of the scallop – no mean feat. However for £17 I would have hoped for a bit more on the plate, with the XL scallop in reality rather dainty.

Moving on to the second act we both plumped for steak; I the roast rib eye ‘club cut’ with pepper sauce and crispy onions, my husband the 50 day aged Cornish sirloin. Both came cooked as requested, mine stacked high with ginormous onion rings, and we were far from unhappy with our choices. However the rib eye admittedly lacked a bit of flair in the flavour department, sauces aside, which was disappointing given the £29 price tag. We added a bowl of truffle and Parmesan fries and mac and cheese with smoked cheddar and garlic. Both provided the finger-licking sustenance I was craving – you can’t beat a truffle, cheese and carb combo. However the highlight of the night was the initially unassuming roasted cauliflower with caper berries (brilliantly oversized capers) and brown butter. Cauliflower seems to be having a moment, with Berber & Q’s cauliflower shawarma (a middle eastern take on the vegetable smothered with pomegranate, tahini and pine nuts) seemingly spearheading the trend. Offering up a creamy, smoky, salty treat, Holborn’s cauliflower side is the perfect ‘naughty but nice’ winter warmer.

Other tempting dishes to have been added to the lunch menu by Franklin include slow cooked Sussex pork belly served with creamed sprouts, Scottish halibut with langoustines and heritage carrots and the Holborn Luxe Burger which boasts dry aged grass fed beef, autumn truffle, roast onion mayonnaise and pickled red cabbage. Its evening menu meanwhile benefits from the arrival of four new starters, five mains, two sides and six desserts, including Parmesan roasted pumpkin and pickled walnut salad, acorn squash and spelt risotto with roasted ceps and short rib cottage pie.

Maldon smokes salmon with crab and spiced avocado

Rounding off an evening of indulgence we managed to find space for dessert. One caramel coffee and hazelnut coupe and a Valrhona chocolate mouse with pear and walnut brittle ice cream later and we were ready to be rolled out of the establishment. While a visit to Holborn Dining Room won’t leave your wallet unharmed, (our three-courses event totalled a rather hefty £146) you will leave with your belly full and brimming with British pride. Its stunning interior alone is worth a look, while propping up at its bar for a cocktail or three and a selection of sides is thoroughly advisable.

• 2 glasses of 2011 Holborn Dining Room Sparkling, Gusbourne Estate, Kent, England – £22
• 2 glasses of 2014 Holborn Dining Room house red, Herault, France – £11
• 1 Scottish diver scallop with truffled wild mushroom duxelle and lobster bisque – £17
• 1 Maldon smoked salmon with crab and spiced avocado – £15
• 1 50 day aged Cornish rare breed sirloin with béarnaise sauce – £29
• 1 roast rib eye ‘club cut’ with pepper sauce and crispy onions – £26
• 1 mac & Cheese with smoked cheddar and roast garlic – £4
• 1 roast cauliflower with caperberries and brown butter – £4
• 1 truffle and parmesan fries – £4
• 1 caramel coffee and hazelnut coupe – £7
• 1 Valrhona chocolate mouse with pear and walnut brittle ice cream – £7

Total: £146

Rating: 3/5

Holborn Dining Room, 252 High Holborn, London, WC1V 7EN, www.holborndiningroom.com