Torbreck founder launches new range in HK

Turning his back on previous controversy, Dave Powell has introduced his new range of wines Powell & Sons produced with his son Callum from the Barossa Valley.

Speaking candidly to the Hong Kong wine media at the Links Concept office – Powell’s exclusive distributor – Powell acknowledges his “dramatic change in life direction” since his departure from the Barossa Valley estate, Torbreck in 2013 over a clash with its new owner, Peter Kight.

His latest venture, a range of wines grown in vineyards in the Barossa and Eden Valley is a collaboration between himand his 21 year old son Callum who is currently studying oenology and working in the Rhône with Jean-Louis Chave.

Due to his close relationship with Links Concept – one of the wines is named after managing director, Patricio’s wife, Alice – Powell has chosen Hong Kong as the first market to launch, closely followed by Sydney where he thinks the two will have a 80% market share with the rest going to Europe.

Describing the range as “high end wines with very concise yields,” Powell spoke of his “delight” when he walked into the vineyards a couple of years ago in the northern Barossa and “knew he could make It work.”

It’s his first attempt at making Riesling however, “I’m a red winemaker making white wine – who would have thought?” but with the “perfect” 2015 vintage, his Eden Valley Riesling is bone-dry with 2% residual sugar and made from 85 year old vines. “Riesling is either very good or very ordinary. I made it in March and bottled in May. I just let the bottle work its magic.”

The majority of grapes for his 2014 Shiraz originate from the Western Barossa and Powell described it as “nicely perfume, fresh and lively.” Yields are still low – making only 600 cases – the wine spends 15 months ageing in 100% new French oak large format barrels.

Powell’s 2014 GSM, made up of 75% Grenache, 20% Shiraz and 5% Mataro from 60-80 year old vines shows “a chewiness and plenty of mouthfeel” and is fruit-forward and powerful but balanced.

His 2014 Barossa and Eden Valley Shiraz – sharing 50% of the grapes each – is his stand-out wine, making the most of the varying terroir. “Eden Valley is yin to Barossa’s yang,”

Finally, the 2014 Alice Shiraz is his only single vineyard wine and is aged for 15 months in new oak barriques. “This is undoubedtly one for the cellar. It really needs time to soak up that oak.”

Not wishing to rake over the past, Powell was quietly confident of his new project and remains modest about where he sees it going.

“I am much better off than I was seven years ago. Running a vineyard but not owning them, winemaking with vines you don’t own, it’s a dangerous game.

“I’ll keep [everything] as is, I was ambitious before and this didn’t do me any favours.”

Cheerfully noting that he may well “drink himself into an early grave,” Powell has no plans to retire for a long while.

“This is an old-school family business where I am 100% involved. I get to work with my son and what is better than that.”