Chianti Classico Masters 2015: The medallists

The Chianti Classico Masters, featuring the first UK blind tasting of the Gran Selezione tier, did justice to the often overlooked Italian region.

It’s hard to ascertain exactly why, but when the world’s great wine regions are discussed, Chianti Classico does not always get mentioned. Other parts of Italy regularly feature, above all the country’s three fine wine “Bs” – Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello – but somehow Chianti Classico tends to get overlooked.

Now, that could be because this historic area is associated with the much larger and more variable Chianti DOCG.
On the other hand, it could be two to something else hampering Chianti Classico’s fine wine reputation, possibly something connected to the region’s image internationally.

However, following a tasting of the area’s top wines in the inaugural Chianti Classico Masters, which included the UK’s first ever blind assessment of the new Gran Selezione uppermost layer, it was clear such oversight should not have anything to do with quality. Indeed, the judges, who were expecting a tiring day of tasting tannic wine, left excited by the consistently high standard of the entries. In short, it was clear that this is a region making distinctive and very fine wines.

Expert tasters

As with all tastings in the drinks business Masters series, the judges were selected not only for their experienced palates, but their expertise in the relevant region or wine style. So, for the Chianti Classico Masters, we lined up Tom Bruce-Gardyne, a former wine buyer and current wine writer specialising in Italy; Alex Canneti, former brand manager for Antinori in the UK, longtime Italian wine buyer and today’s off-trade director at Berkmann Wine Cellars; and Roberto Della Pietra, Italian native and former head sommelier at Clos Maggiore, home to one of London’s best and longest wine lists, as well as the chosen venue for this tasting.

Having sampled over 50 wines from sub- £10 to well over £30, one thing was apparent: these Chianti Classicos were precisely and deliciously Sangiovese-based wines, even if other varieties were present in the blends. In other words, the wines were all reflective of the region’s hallmark grape, with its naturally high acidity, strong tannins, and flavours of ripe red fruits and sour cherries. This ensured that each of the samples in the tasting had a pleasingly Italianate food-friendly character which results from that combination of bright fruit and firm tannin, despite the range of styles – which included everything from young to old, big-to-medium bodied, and those with and without new oak, along with varying proportions of international grapes.

Climbing the ladder

Something else that pleased the judges was the apparent quality difference between tiers as the tasting moved up from Chianti Classico Riserva and then to the new Gran Selezione. In particular, the latter classification, introduced in February 2014 as a new layer to the Chianti Classico quality pyramid, was clearly home to the most impressive wines of the day. Although the Riserva category saw many high-scoring wines, proportionately it was the Gran Selezione level that did best: from 11 entries there were four silvers, four golds and one master – the highest accolade, given only to wines scoring an average of 95 points or above.

Although the new classification has arrived amid controversy, not least accusations that it represents little more than a slightly riper and longer-aged Riserva, rather than a selection based on site, the tasting did show the superiority of Gran Selezione – as well as the consistently high standard within this tier (which may reflect the fact that these wines are taste-tested by a team of winemakers in the region before they can carry the classification).

So, importantly, the tasting highlighted the rising quality of Chianti Classico as one moves up through the hierarchy quality. This may not sound revelatory, but it’s common to find that more expensive and more rarified wines don’t actually give better results. But, in this case, for the most part, those entries made with a selective approach were, in fact, the better wines.

The judges: (LR) Alex Canetti, Berkmann Wine Cellars, Tom Bruce-Gardyne, wine writer and Italian specialist, Patrick Schmitt MW, editor-in-chief, the drinks business, Roberto Della Pietra, former head sommelier

Over the following pages you can see the results by category, or click here for a review of the top 11 Chianti Classicos of the tasting. While all that’s left to say here is that if the judges in this competition had ever been guilty of forgetting Chianti Classico, this tasting had ensured that the DOCG would feature prominently in any future discussion about the world’s key wine regions.

Highlights from the competition

Despite extremely stiff competition, the top wine of the tasting was Antinori’s Badia a Passignano Gran Selezione, which is made using the best Sangiovese grapes from the Chianti Classico property of the same name. Described by one judge as “sexy and elegant”, this wine shows a rare and wonderfully harmonious combination of ripeness and freshness. Texturally, there is a chalky sensation from very end, integrated, high tannin. In terms of flavours, ripe cherry fruit, cedar, and tobacco combine to create an appealing fleshy, gently smoky effect, without any sweetness. This is a wine in a lovely condition, and would be delicious to drink now, ideally with meaty foods, but, as a fine Chianti Classico, it could be cellared for a decade to develop more savoury, leathery characters, and even greater complexity.

• Wine: Antinori, Badia a Passignano 2009 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
• Blend: 100% Sangiovese Ageing: 14 months in 225- and 300-litre Hungarian oak barrels (along with a small percentage of French oak barrels)
• Price: Approx. £30
• Chianti Classico Masters result: Master

Meanwhile, for those in search of a outstanding Chianti Classico Riserva, then look no further than the Nittardi winery. This high-class producer was one of few to gain the top title of Master in the Chianti Classico tasting, winning praise from the judges for its Nittardi Riserva Selezionata 2011 in particular. Although its Riserva from the 2009 vintage was highly-rated, and achieved a Gold (see below). Firstly, the Riserva Selezionata 2011 is made using Nittardi’s best Sangiovese grapes, and a small percentage of Merlot, from its single vineyard called Vigna Alta – so named because it is located 500m above sea level. With two years ageing in 30% new 500 litre oak barrels, the wine displays an appealing note of cigar-box, complementing the rich, black cherry fruit. It’s a powerful Chianti Classico, and dense tannins surround the ripe fruit at its core, but the wine is not tiring; rather it is impressive and joyous to drink now, Although it has plenty of potential to evolve greater complexity in-bottle if left to age in a cool cellar.

• Wine: Nittardi, Chianti Classico Riserva Selezionata 2011 
• Blend: 95% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot
• Ageing: 24 months in 500-liter French oak barrels (30% new), 12 months in bottle
• Price: Approx. £ 35
• Chianti Classico  Masters result: Master

Also worth trying is the slightly less expensive Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva, particularly from the 2009 vintage. This wine, like the Selezionata, is a full-bodied Chianti Classico, and shows a lovely combination of cedar and ripe, black cherries. There’s lots of tannin, and, once again, this example has been built to last.

• Wine: Nittardi, Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
• Price: Approx £ 30 Chianti Classico
• Masters result: Gold

Chianti Classico DOCG, £ 10 – £ 20

Chianti Classico DOCG, £ 20 – £ 30

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, £ 10- £ 20

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, £ 20- £ 30

Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG, £ 30 +

Chianti Classico DOCG Great selection, £ 20 – £ 30

Chianti Classico DOCG Great selection, £ 30 +