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Top 10 wines in the UK press
Domaine Merloix Saint-Véran 2010, Saint-Véran, Burgundy
The Spectator‘s Jonathan Ray welcomed the all-French offering at his Wine Club this week with open arms, but had a particular eye for this Chardonnay of “real character”.
The 2012 Domaine Merloix Saint-Véran, – hailing from the area of the same name in Burgundy – stood head-and-shoulders above the criticism that is usually levelled against its particular appellation, which Ray claims is often dismissed as “a poor man’s Pouilly Fuissé. “But this is far too good for such snooty-booty-boots nonsense,” he assures.
“Put it in an ice bucktet with its yellow capsule showing and a white linen napkin obscuring the label and it would pass for something much grander,” Ray urges.
He continues, “I absoulutely loved its supple, honeyedm tropical fruit and whispers of vanilla and toffee.”
£11.45 from VineyardDirect.com
Château Les Moines 2009, Medoc, Bordeaux
Of the reds on offer, it was a Bordeaux Cru Bourgeois that caught the eyes of those at The Spectator‘s Wine Club. Ray writes, “The 2009 Château Les Moines [is] a medal-winning… claret of quite some panache.”
The vintage was “a belter”, and the extravagant, luxurious blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% Merlot gave off “oodles of ripe dark fruit – blackcurrant to the fore – supported by firm but pleasingly smooth tannins”.
The “truly classy” claret belied its relatively low price, and couldn’t come with much higher recommendation.
£13.35 from VineyardDirect.com
Berrys’ Crémant de Limoux
Looking now to Damien Barr at The Sunday Times and his Barr Fly column, the task he set himself this week was to find the perfect wines to enjoy with a picnic, which no doubt will lend a great service to all those attempting to enjoy the last remnants of summer this month.
“Picnics, like school reunions and holidays with another family, are one of those occasions better left as an idea”, Barr explains, making clear what most already know: picnics are a divisive activity wrought with potential hiccups.
Doing his upmost to ensure that readers’ future ventures into the great outdoors are as enjoyable on the drinking-front as possible, Barr picks a sparkler which is suitable “whatever the weather”.
“Celebrate with Crémant de Limoux. Full of hot-cross-bun spice, this chardonnay-based French fizz is older than Champagne and is incredibly good value.”
Should pair nicely with pork pies and piccalilli…
£11.95 from Berry Bros & Rudd
Ana Sauvignon Blanc 2014, Marlborough
Also in keeping with the picnic-perfect theme, Barr recommends a collection of other wines that he feels are hamper-ready.
The standout among them was an example of New Zealand’s flagship region and grape, the Ana Sauvignon Blanc 2014 from Marlborough.
Flavours such as “shady green fig leaves and waxy lemon flowers” are almost “indecently refreshing”, says Barr. He continues, “don’t worry about keeping it cool – it opens up and takes a herbal turn as it warms”, making it perfect for lounging in the sun.
£11.50 from Corney & Barrow
Logodaj Melnik 55 2013, Bulgaria
Now to Tom Cannavan at the Huffington Post, who is looking east for this week’s wine recommendation.
Commending the evidence of more and more “excellent wines” appearing from the former Soviet states like Bulgaria, this particular example uses the rare Melnik 55 grape variety, here aged in French oak for eight months, says, Cannavan.
He writes, “It’s a full and deliciously svelte and black-fruited wine, the sheen of quality oak and richness of fruit offset by fine chalky tannins and excellent balance.
“Something a bit different for sure, but never mind that: it’s just rather good. Watch the video for my full review, including much more detail and food matching suggestions.”
£11.99 from TalkingWines.co.uk
Centonze Nero d’Avola, Terre Siciliane 2013
In keeping with the summer dining theme, we move from Barr’s earlier picnic-pours to reds designed to match a meaty barbecue, with favourites compiled by Terry Kirby at The Independent.
Describing the Nero d’Avola grape as the ideal Italian grape to pair with the char and smoke of the grill, this Sicilian offering is one of Kirby’s standout pours.
He writes that it is the “ideal barbecue red – fresh and vibrant, bursting with smoky, black-cherry flavours, medium-bodied, but enough depth of flavour to match most charcoal-grilled meats; also wonderful with grilled vegetables, firm white fish or halloumi cheese.”
£11.25 from HHandC.co.uk
Gulfi Nerojbleo, 2009/2010
Moving higher up the price range produces even greater results for Kirby, as he highlights this premium wine that has the structure and powerful fruit to more-than matches up to succulent barbecued meats.
He writes that either vintage of this wine is “a wonderful example of high-end, single-vineyard Nero d’Avola from an award-winning producer”.
He describes it as “intense, succulent, [with] bright red fruits, plenty of body, but not overpowering. Elegant and engaging. Serve with simple grilled lamb or lighter roasts of chicken or pork.”
£18.99 from dbmwines.co.uk
Fraser Gallop Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc 2012, Margaret River
Victoria Moore at The Telegraph keeps the Summer-lovin’ alive with her latest column, as she looks to Australia to provide the fresh whites she craves in the hot weather.
Admitting that she has a “soft spot” for the producer of this Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, she writes, “the estate was only founded in 1998, but has quickly found its feet.”
Describing the wine, she says, “this is another white made with oak, which has a richness, like passion fruit is rich, and tastes of white currants with lime and pink grapefruit riffing through it.”
And Moore sees this wine as an example of the progress Australian wine has made over recent years. She says, “The bottle is another reminder Australian wine has changed. It’s lighter and brighter.”
£16.95 from WineDirect.com
Iona Chardonnay 2014, Ten Barrels, Elgin, South Africa
Now for a “hedonistic treat” from the Daily Mail‘s Matthew Jukes, who has taken the time to review this high-end South African Chardonnay as an example of a white wine that uses oak-ageing expertly.
He writes, “Oak barrels are often used for maturing both red and white wines prior to bottling and they give the wine a special flavour. They are expensive though, so usually only pricey wines benefit from this technique.” This wine is no exception, retailing for £15 at Marks & Spencer.
On the wine, Jukes says, “This big, rich, honey and nut-scented Chardonnay is a perfect example – a luxurious wine it has a very long, cool finish, making it a hedonistic treat.”
£15 from Marks and Spencer
Salatin Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore Extra Dry, Italy
And finally, ending with a pop, we look at the Prosecco that is getting The Guardian‘s David Williams excited this week.
Williams reveals that cheaper Prosecco, despite its enormous success in recent years, can leave wine lovers a bit short-changed on the flavour front. He writes, “Most wine merchants have mixed feelings about Prosecco… Drinking it is like eating sherbet: an immediate mouth-filling frothy hit with no depth or length.”
However, this just serves to make Proseccos with more innovation and bravery in terms of flavour all the more exciting, and this bottling is one such example.
Williams writes, “When they add a little more verve and floral-herbal interest, as in Salatin’s example, to me the result feels more like charming uncomplicated frivolity than air-headed emptiness.”
£9.99 from Majestic