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Top 10 wines in the US press
Eric Texier Chat Fou 2012, Côtes-du-Rhône, France
The impact of millennials on the world of wine is a hot topic at the moment, one that Dave McIntyre is apt to pick up on, recommending a number of so-called “millennial friendly” wines in the Washington Post this week. Among them was this natural French red.
“Austere for a Côtes-du-Rhône, it has the classic flavors of “garrigue” — thyme, rosemary and sagebrush — combined with an energy the French call “nervosité”, he said.
“It’s imported by Louis/Dressner, a New York importer that is a darling of natural wine fans.”
Price: $15
Denis & Didier Berthollier Et Ma Goutte de Mondeuse 2012, Vin de Savoie, France
“Mondeuse is an obscure grape from southeastern France”, said McIntyre having recommended this example.
“It produces light-bodied red wine with dark cherry and wood-smoke flavors”, said McIntyre. “This wine resembles a fine Beaujolais Cru in body and structure, and it responds well to a spell in the refrigerator, making it an ideal summer red.”
Price: $20
2014 Château Puech-Haut “Cuvée Prestige” Côteaux de Languedoc Rosé, Languedoc-Roussillon, France
Irene Virbila, writing for the LA Times, recommended a trio of French rosés to drink with the country’s le grand aioli – a feast of raw and cooked vegetables, hard-boiled eggs, and cod or other seafood dipped in a “garlicky, egg-rich mayonnaise”.
“Rosé and aioli is just one of those pairings that makes perfect sense, so much so that it’s hard to even consider serving a white or a rouge. Rosés from the South of France are dry and aromatic, with the structure and fruit to stand up to the garlic, cutting through the egg yolk and olive oil-based sauce to clear the palate for the next heady bite.”
Recommending this bottle, Virbila said: “Palest pink, this Côteaux de Languedoc rosé is crisp and zingy, tasting of plums and stone fruit, refreshing on a summer afternoon. A blend of 70% Grenache with 30% Cinsault, Château Puech-Haut’s “Cuvée Prestige,” tastes much more expensive than it is. With a perfume of white peaches and wild strawberries, it’s gorgeous just on its own, as an apéritif, but save a bottle for the aioli too.”
Price: about $20
2014 Château de Pampelonne Côtes de Provence Rosé, Provence, France
Virbila also recommended this light salmon pink rosé from the Côtes de Provence, a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren, “an ancient Greek grape that’s used for its perfume”.
“With its bright, clean finish and supple structure, Château de Pampelonne’s full-bodied rosé is more serious than a Saturday afternoon rosé”, she said. “It pairs beautifully with food — grilled salmon or roast chicken, and, of course, the whole spectrum of flavors in a grand aioli.”
Price: From $17 to $19
2014 Domaine de la Modorée Tavel “La Dame Rousse”, Rhone Valley, France
Completing Virbila’s rosé trio is Domaine de la Modorée’s La Dame Rousse from Tavel, which she described as a “gorgeous, nuanced rosé”.
“A blend of 60% Grenache with Cinsault, Syrah Clairette — and Bourboulenc, “La Dame Rousse” is every bit as good as the domaine’s more expensive cuvée, “La Reine des Bois”, she said.
“Dry and full bodied, with aromas of cherries and heirloom roses, the 2014 “La Dame Rousse” is a class act, much more than a simple rosé for everyday drinking. With its long finish and excellent balance, this rosé easily holds its own against the aioli.”
Price: About $27
Ameztoi 2014, Getariako Txakolina, Rubentis, Spain
Rebecca Murphy, writing for Dallas News, recommended this Getariako Txakolina (geh-taria-KO chah-ko-LEAN-ah) from Spain, which she said “may be the most fun rosé ever”.
“The wine, from Spain’s Basque country, is bone dry, with flavors of strawberries, pink grapefruit and Meyer lemon and a touch of salinity”, said Murphy.
“It’s light, slightly fizzy and low in alcohol, with refreshingly bright acidity — perfect for summer sipping. The wine is traditionally poured with the bottle a couple of feet above the glass so the bubbles explode in the glass, releasing the tantalizing aromas. If you’re brave enough to try this method, aim carefully. Serve it as an aperitif or with grilled shellfish. It is a perfect seafood wine.”
Price: $19.99 to $22
Charles & Charles Rosé 2014, Washington, US
Continuing this week’s theme of rosé wines Dennis Sodomka, writing in the Augusta Chronicle, recommended this example produced in Washington State.
“Some people tend to look down their noses at rosé, and some of it is made badly. But we have been seeing more and more outstanding rosé wines from all over the world”, he said.
Of this bottle he said: “No one takes rosé more seriously than the folks at Charles & Charles, where rock star winemakers Charles Bieler and Charles Smith have been perfecting their technique since 2008. Bieler brings the experience of producing rosé in Provence and Smith adds knowledge of the Washington vineyards.”
He added: “The wine is a gorgeous deep pink in the glass, with floral notes of rose petals and violets in the aroma. On the palate there are vibrant flavors of ripe fruit including strawberry, raspberry and Bing cherry. There is a touch of citrus, minerality and a lively acidity leading to a crisp finish. It is a great food wine, but it also is that perfect sip at the end of a long, hot day, when you just want to sit on the porch and dream.”
Price: $12 to 15
Santa Julia Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2010, Mendoza, Argentina
Gil Lempert-Schwarz, writing in the Las Vegas Review Journal, recommended this Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon noting its aromas of “concentrated black currant fruit, creme de cassis, eucalyptus leaves, boysenberry sorbet, vanilla, creme brûlée, new oak references, violet pastilles and phenolics.”
“The inside of the mouth is entirely coated with a serious amount of highly extracted, yet balanced, black cassis fruit, smashed blackcurrants, brambleberries, cocoa butter and soft vanilla”, said Lempert-Schwarz.
“The midpalate eases up on the fine fruit characteristics and reveals good complexity with supple tannins, a bit of acidity and minerality, and even that unmistakable underlying vertesse, going into the typical South American finish, which is slightly short, but utterly pleasant, especially for being from the land of Malbec. It’s a nicely crafted wine from Santa Julia.”
Price: $9.99
2013 Domaine du Tariquet, Cotes de Gascogne, France
Jon Christensen, writing for Ohio’s Columbus Dispatch, described this rosé as having aromas of “strawberries, guava and roses”.
“A dry rose from southwestern France that is made from both southern (Syrah, Tannat) and northern (Cabernet Franc, Merlot) grapes, the wine achieves its subtle complexities with only 12% alcohol. Serve no more than lightly chilled with all manner of summer fare, including spicy dishes.”
Price: $11.99
Whitehaven, 2014 Marlborough, New Zealand
Finally Peg Melnik, writing for the Press Democrat, picked this “racy” Sauvignon Blanc from Whitehaven in Marlborough as her wine of the week, a wine she said wins you over “because it pushes the envelope”.
“It’s edgy and has sassy notes of jalapeño and lime. It’s a grassy Sauvignon Blanc, also fuelled with bright acid. Brilliant.”
Price: $20