Bierzo & Valdeorras in pictures

db was lucky enough to be invited to explore two of Spain’s most exciting emerging regions: Bierzo and Valdeorras courtesy of Wines from Spain this week. Hosted by María José Sevilla, the trip began in Valdeorras (the valley of gold), in the province of Ourense in Galicia. After the Romans had finished mining the area for gold, they gave something back to the region by planting vines on steep slopes in sandy granite soils.

Our first stop was to Bodegas Rafael Palacios, where we met the man himself, brother of Priorat pioneer Alvaro Palacios. Rafa was keen for us to explore the vineyards to show off Valdeorras’ unique landscape. During the visit he drove us to four steep vineyard plots where he grows his beloved Godello grape.

The jewel in his crown is the Sorte o Soro single vineyard planted with 47-year-old Godello vines on quartz-rich soil. Half a hectare in size, the plot was the first land Palacios bought in Valdeorras. He admitted to us during that visit that he was so happy when he sealed the deal in 2004 that he cried with joy.

In searing 40-degree heat, Palacios explained the influence the quartz-rich granite soil has on the wines he makes, giving them a mineral dimension.

From the Sorte o Soro vineyard we gazed down the valley onto this abandoned village, including a monastery, which Palacios dreams of reviving one day.

Back to the cooler temperatures of the tasting room, Palacios guided us through a tasting of his four Godellos. He revealed during the tasting that he has no desire to make red wine and isn’t keen on returning to his homeland of Rioja to make wine. His sole aim is to make the best expression of Godello he can.

The three kings: (l-r) top drop, the single vineyard Sorte o Soro, second in command As Sortes, and the delightful more entry level Louro, all of which offered notes of fennel, stone fruit, white fruit and citrus with a mineral core, though become more exquisitely textured as they moved up in quality.

Our next stop was to Valdesil, which takes its name from the Sil river that flows through Valdeorras. The estate is currently run by the fashionable Borja Prado Luengo, the latest in a long line of winemakers in his family to make Godello in the region, who had just landed from Australia to host our visit.

Like Rafael, Borja was keen for us to see his vineyards, and explained how the different kind of slate soils affect the character of the wines.

Borja talking terroir

His hidden treasure is an ancient Godello vineyard planted by his grandfather, José Ramon Gayoso, in 1885, making it the oldest Godello vineyard in the world. The small amounts of fruit that these incredible gnarly vines yield go into top drop Pedrozo, of which only around 300 magnums are made a year.

Back in the tasting room we slurped our way through the Valdesil range and were treated to a tasting of some older vintages, which demonstrated Godello’s ability to age gracefully, deepening in colour and becoming richer and more autumnal in flavour with the passage of time.

Before lunch we headed to Bodegas Pittacum in Bierzo, where we were hosted by winemaker and gourmand Alfredo Marqués, who, in addition to guiding us through the Pittacum range, gave us a detailed account of Galician delicacies, which include lashings of cured meat, octopus and sausages filled with crispy crackling.

Among the wines we tried during the tasting was new rosé Petit Pittacum made with Mencía and a touch of Godello and alive with summer fruits. During the tasting Marqués revealed a growing thirst for rosé from Bierzo, with the winery having sold out of all 15,000 bottles of Petit six months after going on sale.

While fully committed to the serious business of tasting, we were temporarily distracted by adorable pup Lua, meaning moon in local dialect Gallego.

Continuing our tour of Bierzo, we were introduced to the formidable character of Raul Perez, one of the leading lights in the region known for his free spirit and gung-ho approach to winemaking. In addition to delicious Mencías, Perez also makes Pinot Noir in Bierzo and a white field blend aged for two years under flor. Among his other experiments are an under water aged Albariño, Bordeaux from the Côtes de Blaye, and a red and white from the Swartland.

While driving between wineries, we spotted a number of brave souls walking the Camino de Santiago in furnace-like heat. The pilgrimage to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela often starts in the French Pyrenees, but can also begin in Lisbon or Porto.

Our final visit was to rising star Veronica Ortega, who recently branched out to make her own wine having racked up experience at DRC and in Crozes Hermitage in the Rhône. Originally from Jerez, Ortega was inspired to make wine in Bierzo after meeting pioneers Raul Perez and Ricardo Perez Palacios.

Soon to release a Godello, Ortega currently makes two wines: the more entry level Quite (pronounced kee-tay) and the high-end Roc. Both 100% Mencías, the latest vintage of Quite was aged in one third oak, one third stainless steel and one third amphora to lessen the influence of the oak.

After the tasting, Veronica was good natured enough to pose among her amphora.

Before leaving she treated us to freshly picked cherries, which she’d just been given by a neighbour.