Uncorked: Benson Yan

Benson Yan is the sommelier of upscale Cantonese restaurant Tin Lung Heen on the 102nd floor of the Ritz Carlton. He talks to db about how he is happiest when drinking Krug and a fateful bottle of 1985 Mouton Rothschild which inspired him to go into the wine business.

What vintage are you?

1974. There is a fine bottle of 1974 Pichon-Longueville which I claim as ‘my’ bottle.

What bottle sparked your love of wine?

It was a 1985 bottle of Mouton Rothschild. It was the first bottle I ever had as a waiter in 1992 and I have never forgotten it!

Where are you happiest?

When I’m drinking 2000 Krug.

What’s your greatest vice?

If I’m walking round the restaurant and I see guests’ empty glasses with no wine in them!

What was the best advice you ever received?

To serve the wine at the right temperature in the right glass. Even half a degree of the wrong temperature can completely alter how the wine tastes. A red for example, should be served between 18-20°C.

What’s the most overused word?

I would like to think I don’t have one! But customers are always asking me for an “elegant” wine. What’s an elegant wine? It’s too vague a description.

Your cellar’s underwater, which bottle would you dive in and save?

It would be all of our 50 double magnums of 1982 Petrus. It’s our most valuable bottle at HK$1.8m.

What’s the best and worst thing about the wine business?

The best thing is the sociability and networking that come with the job. The worst is fake wine which fortunately, is not so common any more. You used to see it a lot and it’s heartbreaking.

What’s on your wine bucket list?

1972 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

Who would you invite to your dream dinner party?

I would be honoured to host Robert Parker. He has been instrumental in introducing so many wines to the world.

Personal satisfaction (Parker points – out of 100)?

I would say 80. I am Chinese and we can never be too extreme and say 100! We are taught to be humble from a very early age.

Which wine would you like served at your funeral?

2005 Dom Pérignon.