Mumm rereleases key vintages in Hong Kong

Due to the region’s increasing interest in bubbles, G.H. Mumm has relaunched highlights of its Cordon Rouge range from the last 30 years onto the Hong Kong market as part of its new Collection du Chef de Caves.

Speaking at the launch in Hullett House, Mumm’s chief winemaker, Didier Mariotti explained the reason behind the move from the Reims-based champagne house.

“Despite Australia still being the number one market for us in the Asia Pacific, Hong Kong has a lot of potential. It is a very sophisticated city and every time I come here, I’m amazed at people’s knowledge and interest in trying new wines.”

The releases encompass 150 magnums each of the iconic 1985, 1990 and 1996 vintages which Mariotti described as having “the best ageing potential” and use premium Pinot Noir grapes from Mumm’s best grand cru vineyards.

Each magnum is signed by Mariotti and has the date of disgorgement. They also carry a unique label inspired by the famous Cordon Rouge Millésime bottle of the 1980s and are offered in a wooden presentation box.

Mariotti praised the three vintages, starting with the 1996 which marks the 50^th Millésime from Mumm. Mariotti spoke of about his initial wariness over the vintage’s high levels of acidity even though the grapes had reached “perfect ripeness.’

“We used just under 63 percent of Pinot Noir from our vineyards in Bouzy, Ambonnay and Aÿ and at first we were cautious that the acidity would overwhelm the final wines. However, the 1996 displays perfect balance between freshness and intensity with a lively palate.”

1990 is “intensive and beautifully evolved” and has 81 per cent Pinot Noir from the key crus of Verzenay, Verzy, Bouzy, Ambonnay and Mailly.

Mariotti sees it as a “more traditional” vintage with low yields because of the late spring frost but the sunny and dry summer resulted in grapes with high levels of sugar but low acidity. “It’s outstanding with flinty minerality and a lively palate,” he said.

1985 was heralded to be a “true, classic vintage” despite the cold winter where temperatures plummeted to -30C. “The grapes were perfectly healthy,” said Mariotti. “The resulting wine is very fresh and in perfect balance.”

“These wines have been kept perfectly in our cellars in Reims which has allowed us to track their oenological history,” he continued. “They’ll continue to evolve and express additional aspects of their individual characters.”

Although Hong Kong remains the 16th biggest market for Champagne, it has seen a recent change in people’s consumption as a younger, more affluent generation have emerged who are developing a taste for the bubbly stuff.