Palmer: the first ‘natural’ classed growth?

Château Palmer 2014 could be declared the world’s first “natural” classed growth claret because the vintage was made with 100% biodynamic grapes and no preservatives during winemaking.

Although the property’s managing director Thomas Duroux never used the term “natural wine” in connection with this year’s release from the third growth Margaux château, he told the drinks business during a tasting in Bordeaux earlier this month that the 2014 was special for both its use of biodynamic grapes, and lack of added sulphur dioxide during winemaking.

“2014 was the first vintage when all our vineyards were biodynamic,” he said, noting that Palmer began conversion after the 2008 vintage.

Then he said, “And 2014 is the first vintage when we used no sulphites in winemaking.”

Continuing, he explained that he avoided the use of sulphur dioxide – a highly effective anti-oxidant – until both the fermentation and malo-lactic conversion were complete, and even then, he added just half the normal quantity.

“Our first sulphite use is after malo-lactic because we want to reduce the overall level in the wine, and today we have 40 mg/l of total SO2, when normally we would have double that.”

To achieve this without risking bacterial spoilage of the wine, particularly during the early stages of winemaking, it is necessary to have a good yeast population right from beginning, according to Duroux.

Palmer’s director, Thomas Duroux. Picture credit: Lea & Sandeman

He also told db that his long term aim was to “reduce sulphites to as low a level as possible” in Château Palmer, and admitted that he has trialled two barrels of 2013 Palmer which have done away with SO2 altogether.

Speaking about the motivation for such a move he said that bringing down SO2 levels in the cru classé claret was good for the expression of the wine at primeurs and in the longer term.

“It is better for tasting at primeurs, and better for the wine, because sulphur dioxide can dry the tannin structure and close the fresh aromas,” he said.

In terms of his decision to convert to biodynamics, Duroux said that the viticultural method also improved wine quality.

“Biodynamics helps bring a better identity to every plot and I think that we will have more precision in the wines, but at first we went organic to protect the vineyard and the people working in it, while the biodynamic aspect let’s us go back to a farming method where the estate is considered as a living organism,” he explained.

Consequently, Duroux is attempting to reduce the inputs to Palmer from outside the property by installing cows at the estate to produce compost, as well as sheep to graze the vineyards before bud break.

Presently, all the vineyards producing grapes for Château Palmer are being farmed biodynamically, but Duroux won’t receive certification from Demeter for the entire 55 hectare property until 2017.

Although both Château Climens (Barsac) and Pontet Canet (Pauillac) are biodynamic classed growth properties in Bordeaux, they are not pursuing Palmer’s drive to also make wines without added SO2 – an important aspect to the natural wine movement, which requires producers to minimise winemaking additions.