Bertrand shows off spiritual dimension

Gérard Bertrand has released a £150 Languedoc expression that he describes as the result of a “spiritual journey” incorporating biodynamics and quantum theory.

Gérard Bertrand

Called Clos d’Ora, the wine comes from a 9-hectare site of the same name in Minervois-La Livinière, an appellation that Bertrand called “the kingdom of Syrah”.

This variety forms the base of the blend, followed by Grenache and Mourvèdre, both of which Bertrand planted upon buying the property 17 years ago, and a small proportion of “very old” Carignan.

After 13 years of trying to understand how to achieve the best expression from this plot, Bertrand has now released 10,000 bottles from the maiden 2012 vintage, although he suggested, “there’s potential for 20,000” if the project proves successful.

The name Clos d’Ora relates both to the latin word “ora”, meaning prayer, and the Greek “ὥρα”, meaning hour or time. “It’s a place of peace, love and harmony,” explained Bertrand, who has built a mediation room on top of the renovated winery, as he outlined a mission to forge a link between the biodynamic principles laid down by Rudolf Steiner and the quantum theory of physicist Max Planck.

Having converted his first 2ha to biodynamics back in 2002, Bertrand is now busy expanding this system across his ever-growing Languedoc-Roussillon vineyard holdings, which currently stand at 600ha over 11 estates. “We have now close to 400ha converted and the project is to convert all of them in the next five years,” he remarked.

An illustration of Clos d’Ora’s “energetic signature” from Bertrand’s new book to support his quantum theory for wine.

As for the quantum theory element to his endeavours, Bertrand maintained: “There’s a different electric field to this wine and conventional wine,” a distinction the rugby player-turned-winemaker illustrates in his new autobiography Wine, Moon and Stars.

Despite the high-end price positioning of his latest release, Bertrand insisted that he now prefers to think of his range according to a less commercial framework. “I don’t care any more about premium or super-premium tiers,” he commented. “That was very good for the ‘90s.”

Instead, Bertrand outlined a different, more sensory tier system, arguing: “The difference between pleasure, taste, emotion and message is crucial.” He attributed this gradual understanding of the “message” and “spiritual” element to his approach to time spent working alongside Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.

“I moved from reason to intuition,” said Bertrand of his winemaking approach today. “When you do a blend you have billions of choices, especially in the Languedoc. Sometimes if you choose only the best vats then you don’t make the best blend.”

He introduced Clos d’Ora as an example of his priorities for the future, saying: “I turned 50 three months ago and I want now to make tribute wines. This is what I want to do for the next 30 years: to capture the essence of the terroir.”

Andrew Bewes, managing director of Gérard Bertrand’s UK agent Hallgarten Druitt & Novum Wines, acknowledged Clos d’Ora as a challenging step up for many people’s perception of wines from this corner of France.

“At even a third of the price it’s right at the top of the Languedoc so it’s not going to sell on price,” he told the drinks business. “There are a couple of dozen restaurants who would be able to sell it, but it’s a leap of faith.”