South America in pictures

Giant spiders, massive pieces of meat, Malbec, Carmenère and Fernet Branca… it’s a combination only possible in South America, with thanks to Santa Rita Estates (SRE).

Although it was lunchtime when db arrived in Santiago on an educational trip sponsored by SRE, we weren’t allowed to check-in at the city’s W Hotel, so we were ushered upstairs to wait – which wasn’t so bad after all.

db arrived just in time to attend a milestone seminar on 27 November hosted by Santa Rita Estates to celebrate 20 years since the rediscovery of Carmenère in Carmen’s Alto Maipo vineyards – a winery owned by the group. Carmen winemaker Sebastian Labbé used the event to show a selection of Carmenère from across Chile, as well as an example from Italy and the US.

He also unveiled a wine to mark the anniversary. Called IIII Lustros, it is named after the four Lustra, or five year periods, that have passed since the correct identification of the variety, and it has been made by Labbé using grapes from Carmen’s vineyards at the foot of the Andes Mountains in Alto Jahuel.

Next stop was the Surazo Hotel on the Matanzas beach, where Labbé led a tasting of Carmen’s Wave Series wines, designed to take on New Zealand for Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Yes, db did brave the freezing waters without a wetsuit, but only briefly.

A light lunch à la Chile was then served in Pumanque – a new region discovered by Santa Rita Estates and home to particularly promising Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Visiting journalists Andrew Catchpole from the UK and Mads Jordansen from Denmark opted for the open top.

Santa Rita winemaker Carlos Gatica expressed his belief in Pumanque’s potential for first-rate varietal Cabernet Franc from the area.

Old vine Carmenère in Apalta (above). Below: French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot (left) and Sebastián Warnier, head of viticulture for Santa Rita Estates (right). Boursiquot identified Carmenère in Chile 20 years ago, which he said was easy to spot just after flowering due to its unique twisted stamens.

Along with Carmenère, Apalta was home to this furry beast which crossed db‘s path before disappearing among the vines.

The evening was spent in the region’s Hotel Casa de Campo, with this attractive view at the back, and these rusting classics at the front.

Then pizza for dinner.

Santiago airport is home to Vinum, a new wine bar featuring a wide range of Chilean wines by the glass, including the chance to sip one of the country’s oldest fine wines: Casa Real.

A few hours later and db landed in Mendoza, where personalised Malbec appeared to be a new craze. Before heading off for another tasting, it was time to indulge in an Argentine favourite: Fernet Branca (below). This was much to the delight of Irish wine writer John Wilson, although Caroline Park, who handles Santa Rita’s communications in the UK, stuck to beer.

Santa Rita Estates owns Doña Paula in Tupungato. Here, head viticulturist Martín Kaiser, highlights how soil composition affects Malbec style and quality.

Another light lunch… which was followed by a typical Argentine dinner – steak with Malbec, poured by Marcos Fernández, who became Doña Paula’s head winemaker in August last year. 

Here Fernández shows off the modern winemaker’s favourite accessory: a concrete egg. Doña Paula has just one so far, but Fernández hopes to add more in time for this year’s vintage. The winery is also home to these flowers, which give their name to the brand’s winery, Los Cardos – Argentine for ‘thistles’.

Argentine canapés, followed by another light lunch: grilled lamb, and, of course, beef, served with a selection of Doña Paula’s single-vineyard Malbecs.

Leaving Mendoza, db was surprised to see that you can’t carry a sofa or wood-burning stove in your hand luggage on your way to Chile. No problems with liquids though, thankfully. 

Having landed back in Santiago, db headed straight to Maipo in time for dinner at Casa Real, Santa Rita’s icon wine which last year celebrated 25 years since its foundation.

The estate, now a guest house, has its own private neo-Gothic chapel, which is used annually to hold a concert for friends and employees of Santa Rita, as well as local disadvantaged children.

CEO of Santa Rita Estates, Andrés Lavados, looking relaxed on the terrace at Casa Real, just minutes before a vertical tasting of the brand’s Cabernet Sauvignon hosted by its much-admired winemaker, Cecilia Torres, who has been responsible for making Casa Real Cab since its founding year: 1989. To Cecilia’s right is Santa Rita winemaker Andrés Ilabaca.

And finally, the journey home.