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Top 10 wines in the UK press
Hochar Père et Fils, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon 2009
A number of Lebanese wines produced by the late “great” winemaker Serge Hochar, who died recently, were recommended in tribute by David Williams writing in The Guardian this week.
He said: “Urbane, Lebanese winemaker Serge Hochar, who has just died, had the old-world charm of a vintage French film star. But there was conviction behind the debonair façade and handmade suits, too. Amid the carnage of the civil war, Hochar made good his belief that wine was “above” war, continuing to produce the distinctive wines of his family’s Château Musar from grapes grown in the Bekaa Valley. A glass of this, Musar’s second wine, a sweetly spiced red, reminiscent of France’s Rhône Valley, would make a worthy farewell salute to Hochar’s remarkable life.”
Price: £13.99, Majestic
Château Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon 2007
Williams also recommended Chateau Musar’s 2007 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan and local white varieties of Merwah and Obaideh, for which the château earned global acclaim.
He said: “Indeed, it’s thanks largely to Serge Hochar’s globetrotting promotional efforts that Musar put Lebanon’s ancient winemaking culture back on the map in the 1970s and 1980s. Both wines continue to have devoted cult followings, although their uncompromisingly unusual style also attracts criticism. They have a funky, wild quality that doesn’t sit easily with people who would rather have their wines spotlessly clean, but which I’ve always found fabulously exotic and complex – especially when the bottles have had a few years (decades) to mellow and mature.”
Price: £21.99, Waitrose
Cadet de Ka, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon 2011
Finally Williams recommended this 2011 vintage from Cadet de Ka, an entry level wine described as a “Bordeaux-meets-Mediterranean-style” red.
He said: “Château Ka’s cherry-and-herb-filled Cadet de Ka is like a spicier claret, while Ixsir Altitudes White 2013 (£17.99, slurp.co.uk) has the peaches-and-honeysuckle charm of a white Rhône.”
Price: £8.99, Marks & Spencer
Domaine des Tourelles Red 2010/11 Lebanon
The recent death of winemaker Serge Hochar perhaps also prompted Victoria Moore to take a closer look at the wines of Lebanon, writing in The Telegraph.
She said: “My favourite Lebanese red, this is an enchanting Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon blend that contrives to combine the old and the new, authenticity and sophistication, a drag of dusky tannins with vibrancy and romance. Cries out for a home-made lamb kebab, or smoky-chewy freekeh, baked aubergines, slow-cooked lamb, tahini-dressed salads and flatbread.”
Price: £9.95, slurp.co.uk, £11, Highbury Vintners
Ixsir Altitudes Blanc 2014, Lebanon
Moore also recommended Ixsir Altitudes Blanc 2014, which she described as “floral but not OTT”.
She said: “Ixsir also makes a good red Syrah-Cabernet blend, more international in style than the Tourelles – the 2010 Reserve is in GWW’s sale – but I really liked this white. A blend of Muscat (40%), Viognier, Sauvignon and Semillon, it’s floral but not OTT. Chargrilled swordfish and salty fried fish are its friend.”
Price: £16.75, Great Western Wine of Bath
Rioja Vega Tempranillo Blanco 2013
The white Tempranillo variety was only approved for use in Rioja in 2009, according to Terry Kirby who praised this example from Rioja Vega writing in The Independent.
He said: “[It] has been used here, with a little oak ageing, to create a stunning, full-bodied, complex white: lovely tropical fruit flavours overlaid with citrus and apple notes. One for a big fish pie.”
Price: £11.99, houseoftownend.com
Domaine La Jasse- Castel Pimpanela Montpeyroux 2012
Looking for a midweek wine treat? This “powerful” red blend from southern France was recommended by Kirby, who said it retains a “fresh, drinkable quality.”
He said: “Made from a typical blend of local grapes such as Cinsault, its blackberry, spice and herb flavours are best relished with meaty casseroles or sausages with root-vegetable mash.”
Price: £10.95, thewinesociety.com
Loimer Kamptal Grüner Veltliner 2011, Austria
Jamie Goode, writing in The Express, picked a selection of organic wines which he said was still “very much a niche product”, but worth seeking out.
Of this Austrian example he said: “Fred Loimer is one of the stars of the Austrian wine scene and if you haven’t tried Grüner Veltliner before, this is a good place to start with Austria’s speciality grape variety. It’s dry and fresh, with a pleasing hint of pepper.”
Price: £14.99, Morrisons
Sainsbury’s So Organic Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, South Africa
Goode also recommended Sainsbury’s own-brand Organic Cabernet Sauvignon.
He said: “This dense, fruity red is unusual in that it hasn’t had any sulphites added to it. These are almost always used as a preservative, but this tastes great without their help and it’s good value to boot.”
Price: £6, Sainsbury’s
Aldi The Venturer Series Rueda Verdejo 2013, Spain
Finally Olly Smith, writing for the Daily Mail, picked this Verdejo as his wine pick of the week.
In keeping with his often off-beat wine reviews, Smith said: “Another steal from Aldi for a white that feels like a peace treaty signed between the realms of pineapple and peach.”
Price: £4.79, Aldi