Top 10 wines in the US press

2013 Lo-Fi Santa Ynez Valley Cabernet Franc

This “uniquely American” 2013 Lo-Fi Cabernet Franc topped the list of Jon Bonné’s top 100 US Cabernet and blends writing in the San Francisco Chronicle this week.

He said: “I’d heard whispers about the new wines from Mike Roth, whose work I’d so enjoyed when he was at Martian Ranch. By the time I finally got to his Cabernet Franc, sourced from the Coquelicot vineyard near Mission Santa Ines, it was a day or two after my birthday — and I immediately regretted not having opened it on the day itself, only because the finale of an epic birthday dinner was a proper Beijing-style lamb hot pot.

“The Lo-Fi brimmed with the scent of Szechuan peppercorns and crushed flowers to match its tangy red fruit. It would have been the perfect companion on that table. As the name implies, this is bare-bones winemaking: indigenous yeasts, partial carbonic maceration, neutral oak, barely any sulfur.

“The result is neither beholden to Bordeaux or the Loire; it’s a uniquely American interpretation of Cabernet Franc: flourishy but still subtle in its flavors, with an immediate sense of ripe fruit — a wine to enjoy in the moment. (Its purpose is underscored in that alcohol level, the old means of designating table wines.) It’s also a wine that underscores just how much this is the right grape for Santa Ynez.”

Price: $28

2010 Matthiasson Napa Valley Red

Another of Bonné’s top Cabernet blends was this “Merlot-dominant” Matthiasson Red, which he said continues winemaker Steve Matthiasson’s track record for “age-worthy Napa reds”.

He said: “It’s stunning, a reminder of what Napa has accomplished through the decades, Slightly leathery, notably savory and fully formed, it’s full of dark mineral, lilac, dust, cured tobacco and dried oregano, plus deep blackcurrant and cherry skin, and an innate brightness to the tannins.”

Price: $90

Piper Heidsieck Brut, Champagne, France

Dave McIntyre, writing in the Washington Post, recommended a selection of sparklers for the holiday season, starting with this Piper Heidsieck’s classic Brut Champagne.

He said: “A classic Champagne, it has tree-fruit flavors, crisp minerality and a satisfying, palate-invigorating finish.”

Price: $50

Stolpman Vineyards Estate Grown Syrah 2011/2012, Santa Ynez Valley, California

McIntyre also picked this “excellent” estate grown Syrah which he said was “a bit gangly at first”, but opens to reveal “blueberry and cherry fruit with an earthy edge.”

He said: “I tasted the 2011 most recently, while the distributor recently began selling the 2012; no worries, as this winery is consistently good.”

Price: $32

2012 Tablas Creek Vineyard Côtes de Tablas, California’s Central Coast

This “rich and spicy” red was recommended by Irene Virbila writing in the LA Times – a wine she said was perfectly suited to serving with “any kind of game or even a roast duck or goose.”

He said: “A blend of organic estate-grown 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah and a touch of Counoise and Mourvèdre, this gorgeous, rich, spicy red has plenty of character and a fine balance. Call it lush but fresh. It tastes of cherries, plums and wild herbs, with a licorice kick. Pair it with venison loin, roast duck or goose, or a pork roast.”

Price: $30 to $34

E. Guigal, Côtes du Rhône AOC 2010

Rebecca Murphy, writing in Dallas News, picked this French red as her wine of the week, which she described as one of the best value wines from the southern half of France’s Côtes du Rhône.

She said: “When you find it from a renowned producer such as Guigal, you have found a treasure. Syrah’s meaty blackberry and black pepper fruit is equally matched by grenache’s juicy strawberry, raspberry and orange zest fruit, with a splash of mourvèdre thrown in for a bit of earthy spiciness. It is medium-bodied, with an intricate balance of zesty acidity, luscious fruit and mellow tannins. It’s a versatile companion to many foods including mushroom pizza, meatloaf, mac and cheese or a roast chicken.”

Price: $13.99 to $16

Charles Krug Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Napa Valley

Dennis Sodomka, writing in the Augusta Chronicle, recommended this Sauvignon Blanc from the Charles Krug Estate, which he said was “probably one of the oldest, most prestigious, most innovative wineries you’ve never heard of”.

Of this 2013 offering, Sodomka said: “The current release of the 2013 Sauvignon Blanc and the 2012 Chardonnay are great examples. Both are fresh, bright delicious wines that pair well with food.”

He added: “At about $3 less than the Chardonnay, the Sauvignon Blanc is an especially good buy. It is a beautiful pale yellow in the glass, with a pleasant honeysuckle aroma. Lime and grapefruit flavors predominate, but there is a mellow, buttery flavor that reminded me more of a Chardonnay. That was surprising because the Sauvignon Blanc is fermented in stainless steel and sees no oak. Like most Charles Krug wines, the Sauvignon is produced from estate fruit.”

Price: $17 to 19

Landmark Vineyards Overlook Pinot Noir 2012, San Luis Obispo, Sonoma and Monterey, California

This “impressive and overachieving ” Pinot Noir was this week’s top pick from Gil Lempert-Schwarz writing in the Las Vegas Review Journal. 

He said: “The wine is powerful for a Pinot Noir, without masquerading as Syrah, which happens a lot in California. There are again fresh bright crushed red berries, cherries, plums, raspberry coulis, cranberry fondant and copious amounts of phenols and earthy minerals with underlying hints of aniseed powder. The midpalate seems rich and forward with good amounts of balance between fruit and acidity, along with good tannin structure that reflects the wine’s microclimate. The finish is fine with hints of candied cranberries and faint oak references and excellent length.”

Price: $19.99

Easton, Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Monarch Mine Vineyard, Sierra Foothills, California

Finally Peg Melnik, writing for the Press Democrat, turned her attention toward Sauvignon Blanc this week, picking Easton’s 2013 Monarch Mine Vineyard Sauvignon as her top pick.

He said: “This Sauvignon Blanc is exotic, yet genteel. It’s dry with crisp acidity and notes of melon, papaya, lime and mineral. It’s flavorful and refreshing. A great buy for the quality.”

Price: $18

Foursight, Charles Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Anderson Valley, California

This “striking” Sauvignon Blanc from California’s Anderson Valley also came highly recommended by Melnik.

She said: “This is a smart Sauvignon Blanc with notes of melon, citrus, and mineral. It’s lush and yet manages to have great balance.”

Price: $20