Postcard from Tokyo: Simon Staples

Simon Staples, Berry Bros & Rudd’s sales director for Asia, moved from Hong Kong to Japan two months ago and claims his “size 14s haven’t touched the ground” since. Interrupting “a constant whirl of meetings, tastings and dinners”, the drinks business finally caught up with him.

Simon Staples

What has struck you the most in all the differences to the Hong Kong trade?

First, the considered and diverse approach to purchasing here. In Hong Kong a client might have a glass of wine, like it, and order 5 – 10 cases there at the dinner table.  Here it’s probably a maximum of a single case, but with 4 different wines and will most likely be ordered the following day after thinking about it.

Overall it feels more mature as a market in the different wines it wants. HK also has this, probably more than other major Asian cities, but Tokyo feels ten years older, and more like the UK in its diversity.

Then, there’s the scary amount of detailed knowledge among clients. I’ve never had to swot up before a wine seminar or tasting so much in years. If someone gets the wine bug here they really explore it in extraordinary depths, and that’s a challenge to an old wine dinosaur like me. Also, I’ve yet to see a fake wine where it seemed a fairly frequent occurrence in HK.

What’s the most dynamic part of the Japanese trade?

I get the impression most wine lovers drink out. I’m sort of guessing, but I get the feeling Japanese consumers do not kick back with a bottle of Kiwi Pinot of a Tuesday night, watching the X Factor. This contributes to why the wholesale side of our business here is flying. We have a great portfolio of agencies and a fantastic team of passionate, motivated, professional wholesalers who seem to sell 24 hours a day!

Which fine wines excite most interest?

Champagne is King followed by red and white Burgundy, though Bordeaux is still incredibly popular. New Zealand and Chile and Argentina are desirable, and Italy and Spain are really starting to motor too. ‘La-dee-dar’ Sherry and Austrian Grüner Veltliner are great sellers, but Rosé, which I thought would be an obvious win-win, doesn’t sell at all!

‘La-dee-dar‘ sherry – a surprising hit in Japan

What were your top 5 top-sellers in November? 

Our own-label United Kingdom Cuvée Champagne, Dom Perignon 2004, Calon-Ségur 2005, Churton Pinot Noir (New Zealand), our own-label Meursault and Pulenta Gran Corte (Argentina)

If (big ‘if’) prices are reasonable, do you expect much interest in next year’s en primeur?

We have always done fairly well here with en primeur, but really it’s only the First Growths and a few big names like Calon, Lynch, Cos, Las Cases … It is a challenging concept, however I think it’s just a question of explaining the pros and cons. But I can’t wait to try them on the Japanese, as it seems there’s keen interest in laying down wines for children’s graduations and weddings.