Sauvignon and Merlot top for value

Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot are the most popular grapes used to produce good value French wines, according to recommendations made by the UK’s press and top sommeliers, with wines from Jura and Savoie also gaining prominence.

Each year Sopexa invites members of the UK wine press and sommeliers to recommend their favourite French wines within different price categories contributing to the Absolutely Cracking French Wines Tasting, which was held on Monday, 20 October in London. Their selections not only give a sense current tastes among the trade, but of which wines are currently on trend and good value.

Having analysed the 50 red and white wines chosen priced under £10, white wines proved most popular accounting for 31 of the wines. Within this price category, Sauvignon Blanc appeared eight times each, followed by Viognier with five and Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne, both with four. The “hidden gems” category featured wines priced between £10 to £16 in which Sauvignon Blanc maintained its dominance appearing in six out of the 40 wines, followed by Semilion with five and Riesling with four.

Moving onto the reds Merlot was deemed to be the best value grape variety appearing in six of the 19 red wines selected under £10, followed closely by Syrah with five and Grenache with four. Within the red “hidden gems” £10 to £16 category, assorted blends dominated by Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre proved most popular, appearing in nine of the 20 wines chosen, with the Cote du Rhône heavily represented. One red in the under £10 category, Domaine Robert Sérol Vielles Vignes 2013 from the AOC Côte Roannaise in the Loire, made with Gamay, was recommended by three separate members of the wine press, Stephen Spurrier, Rosemary George MW and Jim Budd. Another Gamay wine, AOP Beaujolais-Villages Chateau de Lacarelle 2013, was again recommended by three separate individuals; Tim Atkin MW, Liz Sagues and Amy Wislocki.

In terms of regions the Languedoc-Roussillon was prominent accounting for 18 of the wines listed in the under £10 red and white category, while a small selection of wine from the Jura and Savoie also appeared, two regions that Natasha Hughes MW noted for being “fashionable” at the moment.

Gerard Basset MS, MW, OBE and Natasha Hughes MW

Speaking to the drinks business at the tasting, Hughes said: “It’s really interesting to watch this tasting because it gives you a good feeling for shifting trends and interests. It’s one of the very few tastings that isn’t driven by a particular imperative; the wines are here because someone really likes them, which is great.”

“At the entry level there is often Languedoc and the Loire because these are regions that can still deliver value for money. There’s been a growing number of Vin de France wines also. It’s a category that’s allowed producers to be creative at various price levels. We are seeing quite a lot of Savoie and Jura wines. It’s only four wines but for a small area it’s quite a lot. It seems to be quite fashionable this year. There was not a lot of Burgundy which reflects the price changes. I think the trade has got to be getting a bit more inventive about looking outside of classic appellations and looking for better value.”

Gerard Basset MS MW, said: “It’s a fabulous tasting. Sopexa makes a great show. I think there are more wines and more people taking part this year and we have a side show that didn’t exist last year. I didn’t think its would be so well attended but it was. And so it was great to see that people were putting all their effort in. I was very impressed with the Languedoc-Rousillon, and Jura showed very well. That doesn’t mean the others are rubbish, but these regions are gaining a bit more prominence.”

The tasting also included red and white “classics” priced £16 to £30+, Champagnes and sparkling wines, rosés and sweet wines.

Over the following pages are a selection of some of the wines recommended by the press priced under £8 with their comments…

 Domaine Robert Sérol Vielles Vignes 2013, AOC Côte Roannaise, Loire

“A seriously fruity Gamay from this little-known region west of Lyon.” – Stephen Spurrier

“Lovely fresh cherry and an original and very affordable alternative to Beaujolais.” – Rosemary George MW

“The Côte Roannaise vineyards are much closer to those of Beaujolais than they are to the Loire vineyards – Poilly-Fumé is nearly 200km to the north. 2013 was a much better vintage in the Roannaise than much of the rest of the Loire, and this is delicious drinking.” – Jim Budd

£8.95 – The Wine Society

AOP Beaujolais-Villages Chateau de Lacarelle 2013, Beaujolais

“Juicy, lip-smacking Beaujolais that’s gloriously bright and refreshing.” – Tim Atkin MW

“Just what Beaujolais-Villages should be: fresh, juicy, aromatic, uncomplicated and very enjoyable.” – Liz Sagues

“A great vintage from one of Beaujolais’ oldest producers. Fantastic value, with bags of fragrant, sappy flavour. Sadly, most consumers still don’t realised just how good Beaujolais can be these days.” – Amy Wislocki

£7.95 – The Wine Society

AOP Samur Vignerons de Samur Samur Rouge 2012

“Still just shimmying in under £10. General de Gaulle [as shown on the label] remains a real favourite: forthright, crunchy, even perhaps a little tart. making him perfect with cheese and pates. Indisputably French, indisputably Cabernet Franc. Still great value, and don’t forget to snap up the matching pair of the Chenin Blanc.” – Sarah Jane Evans MW

£9.75 – Yapp Brothers

AOP Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Michel Poinard Les Saviaux 2012

“I enjoyed this elegant Crozes from Michel Poinard at the Majestic tasting for its true Northern Rhone Syrah characteristics of pepper and spice-infused red and black fruits.” – Anthony Rose

£15.99 – Majestic Wines

Vin de France Domaine Jean Royer Le Petit Roy NV

“A real find. French winemaker Jean-Marie Royer makes sublime Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but this is straight Vin de France. Gloriously fresh, it is a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mouvédre, with bright red fruits, cracked pepper and a grippy finish.” – Will Lyons

£13.75 – Lea & Sandeman

AOP Moselle – Chateau de Vaux les Gryphées 2013

“An unusual blend from an unusual AOP. Fragrant and crisp: a really versatile food wine.” – Natasha Hughes MW

£9.95 – The Wine Society

IGP Haute Vallée de l’Aude Domaine Begude Terroir 11300 2012

“Lightly oaked Limoux Chardonnay with two bonuses: it’s sealed with a screwcap and has a 12% abv.” – Patrick Schmitt, the drinks business

£8 – Waitrose

AOP Alsace Cave de Turckheim Sylvaner Vielles Vignes 2011

“This is a great food-friendly wine, especially with Asian food. Coming from vines over 35 years old, it has been aged in acacia barrels, which rounds the acidity of the wine making it fresh, luscious and full of character. A fantastic alternative to the classic grapes for the by the glass house wine selection.” – Diana Rollan – Hakkasan

£7 – Boutinot

AOP Savoie Domaine de l’Idylle  Cuvée l’Orangie 2013

“At 11% alcohol this crisp, dry, fresh white made from Savoie’s native Jacquére grape makes a delicate aperitif. From limestone soild in Apremont, near Chambery, it tastes like a mountain Muscadet.” – Rose Murray Brown MW

£10.95 – Yapp Brothers

 Vin de France Jérémie Mourat Moulin Blanc, Blanc de Noirs 2013

“This white wine is made with Pinot Noir, a really rare thing to come across. The wine has a great balance of fruit and acidity with a lovely texture and a fantastic minerality. Recommendation made for the 2012 vintage.” – Romain Bourger, The Vineyard

“White Pinot Noir from old vines in the Vendé. Round and rich yet dry, with beguiling aromas and impressive intensity. White Pinot Noirs are rare and often un-balanced. This is superbly made and stunning, and has the benefit of coming from a little known area in norther France.” – Charlie Young, Vinoteca

£14.50 – Vinoteca