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Top 10 wines in the UK press
NV Fonseca, Bin 27, Port, Portugal
Matthew Jukes writing in the Daily Mail recommended an “elite selection” of “cosmic” sweet wines this week, including this Bin 27 Port from Fonseca.
He said: “Fonseca is one of the greatest estates in the wine world and Bin 27 is its very own secret weapon. This is a silky-smooth, juicy, blackberry-smooched Port but it is not a heavyweight style and this means that you can serve it chilled with the Chocolate fondant recipe and the resulting match is nothing short of heavenly. It will serve ten glasses making it a veritable steal!”
Price: £13, Tesco
2012 Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise Domaine Durban, Southern Rhône, France
Another of Jukes’ favourites was this Beaumes-de-Venise from southern Rhône.
He said: “This is my favourite Beaumes-de-Venise (France’s iconic sweet Muscat incarnation). Pour it with the Rhubarb and custard tart with ‘farthing biscuits’ because it will go with both the tart and also the savoury biccies, particularly if you serve a soft French cheese, too.”
Price: £18.95, bottle & £9.95 half bottle, Berry Bros. & Rudd tel. 0800 280 2440 & www.bbr.com
Marks & Spencer Dry Furmint Tokaji, Hungary 2013
The “distinct wine culture” of “Mitteleuropa” is finally being given a chance in the UK, according to David Williams writing in The Guardian. This week he delved into the wines of central Europe picking out this “superbly honeyed and spicy” Furmint Tokaji.
He said: “The great sweet wines of Hungary’s Tokaj region, with their flavours of barley sugar and marmalade and their febrile acidity, have always had a devoted following, but the area’s dry wines can be equally distinctive. Furmint is the variety most widely used for both styles, and, without the sugar, it makes for powerful whites where richness of fruit is balanced with that same eye-opening acidity. Tokaji producer Dobogó’s Furmint 2011 (£16.95, Halifax Wine Company) is superbly honeyed and spicy. Made by the Hilltop Neszmély winery, M&S’s version has gooseberry, quince and plenty of citric vim.”
Price: £9.99
Hans Igler Zweigelt Classic, Mittelburgenland, Austria 2011
Williams saw fit to recommend this “light and juicy” red from Hans Igler citing its “burst of cherry and cherry blossom”.
He said: “Austria is the most established of the Central Europeans, the Riesling and Grüner Veltliner whites of legendary producers such as Prager, FX Pichler and Knoll among the world’s acknowledged classics. Members-only merchant The Wine Society (the £40 lifetime fee is worth it if you buy wine regularly) has just added a cluster of new Austrians to its list, all of them worth a sip. I was particularly taken with Bernard Ott’s racy, mineral, herbal Am Berg Grüner Veltliner 2013 dry white (£10.95), and the burst of cherry and cherry blossom in Hans Igler’s light and juicy zweigelt red.”
Price: £9.95, The Wine Society
Morrisons Signature Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2013 Italy
This bargain Italian white was recommended by Susy Atkins writing in The Telegraph this week as part of her round up of “end-of-summer wine offers”.
She said: “Many of us are back from holiday, empty of pocket, but replete with happy memories of cheap local vin/vino. I can’t match the prices en vacances but can point you in the direction of the last, and best, of the summer wine at home.”
Of this Morrisons Verdicchio she said: “In a traditional tall bottle, this is crisp, dry, slightly grassy-sappy, with subtle pear and lime peel. Very classy for the price.”
Price: £5.49, Morrisons
Luis Felipe Edwards Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Mountain View Vineyards Chile
For those in search of a bargain-friendly red, this Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon could be just the ticket, as recommended by Atkins.
She said: “Perfumed and tasting of juicy red plums and pippy fresh blackcurrants, a versatile, medium-bodied red for late-summer barbecues.”
Price: Majestic, £6.99, down to £5.49 between 2 and 29 September
Il Colle Rosso di Montalcino 2012, Italy
Terry Kirby, writing in The Independent, included this Italian red in his weekly wine round up this week calling it a “gorgeous example of the cheaper cousin to Tuscany’s fêted Brunello di Montalcino”, and a wine which demonstrates a “perfect balance between elegance and power”.
He said: “Light- to medium-bodied, but bursting with crunchy, fresh-berry fruit flavours and a hint of spice. Drink with pork loin or a veal chop.”
Price: £16.80, hhandc.co.uk
Tyrrell’s Hunter Valley Verdelho 2013, Australia
Kirby also recommended this white from Australia’s Hunter Valley, perfect as an apéritif or enjoyed with shellfish.
He said: “Tyrell’s in Australia’s Hunter Valley is esteemed for its long-ageing Semillon, but they also work wonders with the Verdelho grape, which needs to be drunk young. Lovely as an aperitif or to wash down shellfish, this is brightly refreshing and full of zingy flavours of limes and lemon zest.”
Price: £8.95, thewinesociety.com
Venturer Vermentino 2013
Finally Olly Smith, writing for the Daily Mail, explored the delighted of the Italian variety Vermentino – a “dazzling white grape with bright flavours that shine” which he said had prices with the potential to match the success of Pinot Grigio.
He said: “Vermentino always lurks behind Pinot Grigio, but in its own right it’s a gently aromatic white that can be as scented as lemon blossom and as bracing as the sea breeze. If you’re already a fan of unoaked fresh Italian whites, it should rule your shopping list.”
Of this example from Aldi he said: “Impeccable wine at an amazing price for an easy lemony lightness – the ultimate introduction to the world of Vermentino.”
Price: £4.79, Aldi
Quinta do Portal Colheita, Douro, 2012
However despite praising the qualities of Vermentino, it was this Port from Portugal’s Douro Valley which got Smith’s “wine of the week” vote.
He said: “This plump mellow red is headlined by Tempranillo with scented complexity for fans of Rioja.”
£9.95, Wine Society