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Top 10 wines in the UK press
2013 Quadro Sei, Gavi, Piemonte, Italy
A “globe-trotting” selection of wines were recommended by Matthew Jukes writing in the Daily Mail this week. including this “lip-smacking” Italian white.
He said: “Gavi is one of Piemonte’s most famous dry white wines and itis made from the Cortese grape variety. With its catchy name and thirst-quenching flavour it is one of the most fashionable of all Italian dry white wines. Sadly, there are loads of dull examples on our shelves, but this one is well-priced and it has a classic, lip-smacking, apple and lemon balm theme.”
Price: £8.50, Marks & Spencer
2013 A L’Envers, Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux, France
Another of Jukes’ favourites was this 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, which he described as having “exceptional finesse”.
He said: “This epic, vital, classy Sauvignon is a joint venture between and English Master of Wine, Clem Yates, and one of the most pioneering Aussie winemakers of all – David Hohnen. David was the mind behind Cloudy Bay and Cape Mentelle and so you are assured of exceptional finesse here.”
Price: £72.00 for a case of 6 bottles, www.tesco.com.
Clos Floridène Graves Blanc, Bordeaux, France 2012
For David Williams, writing in The Guardian, it was all about the white wines of France recommending three wines showcasing “Sémillon and its friend Sauvignon Blanc” to enjoy while basking in the summer sun.
He said: “The phrase “Bordeaux blend” brings red wine to mind, and variations on a theme of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and Petit Verdot. But it applies just as much to the region’s neglected dry whites. Justly neglected in some of the more sour, mealy-mouthed examples, it has to be said, but not in those where Denis Dubourdieu is involved. Working here in his home estate, the winemaker-professor uses oak barrels for a rich, weighty, slightly honeyed style, with an electric charge of grapefruit and minerals to go with the mown-meadow floral grassiness.”
Price: £17.99, The Co-operative
McWilliams Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Sémillon, New South Wales, Australia 2006
This “brilliant-value introduction” to Sémillon was another of Williams’ recommendations calling it “majestically toasty”.
He said: “Anyone with any interest in wine knows what Sauvignon Blanc should taste like on its own. But Sémillon is less clearly defined. It can be blandly pear-droppy, fake oaky or weedy Sauvignon-lite in mass-market wines. But in the Hunter Valley in New South Wales the variety is quite magically transformed into light wines that are discreetly lemony and subtly herbal when young, and majestically toasty, limey and waxy as they age. Brokenwood and Tyrrell’s are two of the masters of this style – the adolescent Mount Pleasant 2006 is a brilliant-value introduction.”
Price: £8.99, Tesco
Valdo Oro Puro Prosecco Superiore Valdobbiadene NV
Susy Atkins recommended a number of wines from the “heart of Prosecco wine country, the Veneto”, writing in The Telegraph.
He said: “There is no doubt that the better, more interesting wines come from two key towns: Valdobbiadene and Conegliano. These locations appear on the label of superior bottles, which earn “DOCG” status. Valdobbiadene wines in particular have extraordinary freshness, with bright citrus, pear and peach fruit, and a floral scent – more delicious by far than the more basic “DOC” wines of the wider prosecco area. Try them with pasta in a creamy cheese sauce – sensational! Other very good names to look out are Sorelle Bronca, Bortolotti, Nino Franco, Bortolomiol and Villa Sandi. Basic supermarket prosecco makes decent party pop, but I’ve never felt more inclined to trade up.”
Of this Valdobbiadene NV she said: “Lemon-meringue pie turned into fizz, very slightly off-dry with riper, toastier hints than most prosecco. Tempting offer.”
Price: Waitrose, £13.99 down to £8.99 until Tuesday15 July
Sol Lucet Koshu 2013
The first Japanese wine to be listed at a UK supermarket was reviewed by Rose Murray Brown, writing in The Scotsman this week. Made from the indigenous Koshu grape, Brown described light wine as being one that would suit those who favour “Muscadet to Mantrachet”.
She said: “While the Japanese do try to grow Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, it is the delicate pink-skinned Koshu grape that everyone is talking about. This is Japan’s premium native vitis vinifera grape, yet there seem to be wildly conflicting ideas as to Koshu’s actual origin. Some claim it is a descendant of a wild vine, first discovered in Katsunuma in Yamanashi, in 1186. According to Swiss grape geneticist Jose Vouillamoz, Koshu belongs to the European vitis vinifera family so it is more likely to have been introduced from Europe or cross bred with two vinifera parent vines – but Vouillamoz’s DNA analysis has not yet found a match with any known variety.”
She said: “Very attractive label, light floral nose, hint of citric fruits, very crisp, lively acidity with lemongrass undertones, very light, delicate finish. Would suit those who prefer Muscadet to Montrachet.”
Price: £12.99, Marks & Spencer
Crow’s Fountain Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch 2013
Terry Kirby picked three “modestly priced bottles for everyday summer drinking” writing for The Independent this week, including a wine from South Africa’s “signature grape”, Chenin Blanc.
He said: “South Africa’s signature white grape really needs food to bring out its ripe, zesty green-apple and citrus flavours, here given a little oak for complexity. Anything with strong garlicky flavours, such as aioli with barbecued fish or a mature goat’s cheese, would be a great match.”
Price: £7.99, Marks and Spencer
La Vie en Rose 2013
Kirby also had praise for this “summer-berry” rosé which he said would pair perfectly with a French-style picnic.
He said: “A Cinsault/Grenache blend from the Languedoc, this has crisp, summer-berry flavours and a touch of green herbs. A gorgeous retro label oozes French style and simply demands a spread of charcuterie, pâtés, tomato salad and good bread.”
Price: £8.99, oldschoolwines.co.uk; £9.89, selfridges.com
Château de Berne Rosé 2013, Côtes de Provence, France
Finally, Jamie Goode recommended a number of wines to enjoy over a light summer meal starting off with this distinctively shaped bottle of rosé.
He said: “Provence is the home of rosé, and this is a really classy example. It’s dry and textured with notes of fine herbs and cherries. The distinctive bottle shape is attractive, too – especially if you push the boat out and opt for the magnum (double bottle size). It would be perfect with the salmon salad.”
Price: £14.99, Majestic
Darting Estate Dürkheimer Riesling Trocken 2013, Pfalz, Germany
Not forgetting the wines of Germany, Goode highlighted the merits of this Trocken Riesling, with hints of honey and melon, when picking a wine for an al fresco light lunch.
He said: “This German riesling is “Trocken”, which means it’s dry. It’s also lively and floral with honey and melon flavours, a hint of marmalade and keen acidity. A good salad match, it should convert those who think they don’t like German wines.”
Price: £9.49, Marks & Spencer