db’s wines of the week

Domaine Anne Gros – 2011 Chambolle-Musigny “La Combe d’Orveau”

A super premier cru offering from Anne Gros. Lightly perfumed with fresh tobacco and cherry the palate was structured with a lovely acidity and a good core of fruit.

Tasted a little later it had really opened up and was, frankly, tremendous.

Cellar? You could drink it now but it’ll keep quite happily.

Available from: Imperatrice

Domaine des Tilleuls – 2006 Chapelle-Chambertin

Premier cru to a grand cru, this had a rich, dark fruit nose and then was velvety on the palate. It was beautifully integrated with god structure, grip and freshness and a streak of dark cherry and blackberry.

Cellar? It’s in a lovely drinking place at the moment but it was showing little obvious signs of age so feel free to hang on to it a little longer.

Available from: Imperatrice

Sylvain Cathiard – 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges “Aux Thorey”

The first of several Cathiard wines tasted – another being a splendid Vosne-Romanée from the same vintage – this premier cru from the humbler Nuits-Saint-Georges though was just excellent.

The nose was lovely, lightly perfumed but bright with red fruit. The palate was similar, lots of red fruit, soft and juicy with good acidity and length. Straight down the middle. Super.

Cellar? Can drink now but it’s still young and will happily keep.

Available from: Imperatrice

François Mikulski – 2011 Volnay “Santenots du Milieu”

Tightly bound nose with cherry and vanilla (though he only uses 20% new oak), very elegant and fine.

Singing acidity on the palate, beautiful fruit, it was precise and structured, soft not austere and I was reliably informed his whites are the same.

Cellar? Drink or keep (the 2011s in general are soft and approachable and you can drink them now but they also have structure enough to stand cellaring).

Available from: Imperatrice

Sylvain Cathiard – 2007 Romanée-Saint-Vivant

A grand cru from a top producer in a tricky year but this was a triumph.

The nose was slightly, earthy, herby, cherry and liquorice, while the palate was super fresh with a resinous and fresh red cherry character and showing little sign of age.

Cellar? Drink it, but it’s so freash and pulled together there wouldn’t be any harm in keeping it.

Available from: Imperatrice

Domaine de Eugenie – 2011 Grand Echezeaux

A full throated grand cru from François Pinault’s Burgundy property. Packed with black fruit it’s certainly “big and bold” and “modern” in style.

It may suit the appellation yet it may be possible to argue it’s a little extracted. Are more Bordeaux methods being applied?

No matter, it may not be to a purists taste but it has its place and is perfectly correct and delicious.

Cellar? Rich and luscious enough to drink now but it would be interesting to see what a few years in the cellar would do.

Available from: Imperatrice

Antoine Jobard – 2009 Bourgogne Blanc

A plain “white Burgundy” but with more to it than meets the eye. An instant whiff of honey, mineral and wax on the nose bears witness to this wine’s origins in Meursault.

Mouthfilling with fresh, green apples, white fruit and classic 09 richness with a little quince and peach it has a refreshing acidity and a lovely waxy texture to it.

Cellar? No! Find and drink as much as you can.

Available from: Watson’s Wines

Lopez de Heredia – 2004 Viña Gravonia

A Spanish intrusion but one perfectly justified for a wine so complex and utterly delicious. Those who know this estate’s other white Viña Tondonia Reserva may be wary but this is not the oxidative beast its sister wine is.

A nose a little like butter on the turn which may strike you as an unpromising start perhaps but it soon gives way to bread and ripe pear and the same on the palate along with tea leaves and nuts. This is a wine of texture too, waxy and fatty and unctuous.

“Autumn wine” said my follower taster, quite unspeakably delicious say I.

Cellar? Can do and it wouldn’t do it any harm but like the Bourgogne Blanc buy it where you can to drink and enjoy.

Available from: Watson’s Wines

Pithon-Paille – 2009 Quarts de Chaume

A sweet wine to wrap things up and this exquisite Loire grand cru fits the bill nicely. The nose doesn’t give much away to begin with but then honey and orange peel come through.

The palate is fabulous, sweet and succulent with dried fruit and spices and a lovely acidity that lifts the wine and cleans the palate but not quite enough to wash the delicious nectar from the tongue.

Cellar? One can always cellar sweet wines and drink them young. Your choice.

Available from: Imperatrice