Top wines in the Asian press

 Domaine Raveneau

Jeannie Cho Lee was this week singing the praises of Burgundy’s white wines singling out the region’s best producers writing on asianpalate.com

One such producer hailed for its Chablis was the tiny vineyard of Raveneau, established in 1948.

She said: “The domaine is tiny with only of 7.5 hectares of vines making about 4,000 cases of wine per year and the holdings include three Grand Crus – Blanchot, Les Clos and Valmur as well as four Premiers Crus – Montée de Tonnerres, Les Vaillons, Butteaux and Chapelot. Today, the winery is run by Francois’ two sons, Bernard and Jean-Marie Raveneau, with the third generation, Bernard’s daughter also involved.

“What makes Raveneau’s Chablis so special is their ability to age for decades. The quality comes from the vineyard with the chalky Kimmeridgian limestone that gives the wines minerality and nervosity.

“All the grapes are hand harvested and aged in old oak barrels for well over a year – very unusual in Chablis where the majority of wines are bottled within six month of their harvest. The wine’s slow maturation allows the wine to develop body and depth.

“While all of Raveneau’s Grand Crus can easily keep for 20-30 years, the Blanchots is the most open while Les Clos is often the most closed, requiring longer bottle age. Raveneau’s Les Clos are best after at least 12 years of age and only start to peak at 16 to 18 years of age.

“Even at the basic Chablis level, Raveneau wines are fantastic – expressive, generous and pure.”

 Domaine Michel Niellon

This white comes from the vineyards of Michel Neillon in the Chassagne which Cho Lee believes to be one of the most underrated appellations on the Cote d’Or.

She said: “Old vines and very low yields give Niellon’s wines an intensity that is rarely found except in Grand Cru and top Premier Cru sites.

“Niellon’s wine however, even at the village level, have tension, vivacity and concentration.

“A visit to their cellar reaffirms the importance and value of tradition – there is no fancy equipment and quality clearly comes from the vineyard.

Niellon’s Grand Crus are magnificent, especially the Batard-Montrachet. In its youth, the wine is linear, pure and focused but with time, the wine develops more layers of flavours and gains depth and definition. The Chevalier-Montrachet is creamy and generous with an incredible aromatic profile.

“While the Grand Crus are difficult to find, the Premier Crus are more affordable and easier to access – Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie is one of my favourites as is Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Chassagne du Clos Saint-Jean.

“These wines easily age for a decade or more.”

Domaine Jean-Francois Coche Dury

Cho Lee also recommended the vineyards of Jean-Francois and its Coche Dury wines which come with an “astronomical” price tag but which she said should be tried at least once in the life of any wine lover.

She said: “”Like many Burgundian producers, Coche Dury’s vineyards are scattered in numerous appellations including Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie, and Volnay.

“While he produces a small amount of red wine in Volnay, it is his impressive, concentrated whites that are world renown. His Corton-Charlemagne is majestic – well worth seeking out despite the tiny volume and high prices.

“Coche Dury’s basic Bourgogne is excellent and offers great value – it could easily pass for a top commune white.

“What Coche Dury is really known for are his Meursaults, from Les Chevalières and Les Enseignères to his Premier Crus Meursault-Perrières and Meursault-Caillerets.

“The energy and intensity of Coche Dury wines are without rival and the power of the wines enable them to age for decades, becoming more voluptuous while gaining in complexity and nuances.”

 Henry Fessy Chateau Labourons Fleurie 2011.

In the Wine Times Hong Kong this week two Beaujolais’, produced under the Henry Fessy brand which was set up by Burgundy wine producer Louis Latour, get an airing.

Of this 2011 Chateau Labourons Fleurie its writers said: “It is an easy going wine that has decent fruit characters with some elegance and complexity and shows of the youthfulness of the Gamay grape.”

Henry Fessy Chateau des Reyssiers Regnie 2010.

This 2010 Chateau des Reyssiers Reginie was described as more “delicate and feminine” in style than the previous Fleurie.

It said: “Both wines are, in our opinion great wines to pair with the versatility of Chinese cuisine overall and, at this time of the year would be great with the traditional Hong Kong style hot pot.”

Deux Montille, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Sur Gamay 2007

Wine blogger Wai Xin, writing at winexin.sg, recommended this 2007 Chardonnay.

He said: “Plenty of chalky mineral presented to the nose while fruits were shy, probably got scared away by the challenging vintage.

“Strong, razor-like sharpness from the acid gives a highly energetic zest on the palate.

“A serious piece of work with plenty of minerals that simply won’t give way.

“Drink this with food, or you will suffer from premature hunger pangs.”

Domaine Richaud Cairanne Côte du Rhône Villages 2011

Another favourite of Xin’s was this 2011 red from the Côte du Rhône.

He said: “Initial whiff of musty funk that suggested Brettanomyces.

“After waiting patiently for half an hour to decide its fate, I could pick up marginally ripe red fruit, light purple flower and spice notes.

“On palate there was hint of residual sweetness, light powdery tannins and bright acid.

“A pleasant gentle style Rhône wine, but certainly not my favourite because of Brett.”

Hugh de Payen 2004

This 2004 Champagne also scored highly by Xin who said it had a “unique” taste which set it apart from commercial Champagne houses.

He said: “Fresh green apple notes supported by a deep mineral undertone, crisp and refreshing.

“Sharp acidity and tight structure, packaged into a very solemn expression with a very long and dry finish.

“A unique and welcoming expression sets this apart from commercial houses.”