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Top 10 wines in the US press

2011 Bedrock Evangelho Vineyard Heritage Contra Costa County Red

This Californian red sneaked into Jon Bonné’s top ten of 2013 writing this week in the San Francisco Chronicle.

He said: “The sandy soils of Antioch, hosting a mix of Zinfandel, Mourvedre, Carignane and a grab bag of old-school white grapes grown by stalwart farmer Frank Evangelho, yielded a thing of beauty: brambly fruit, lavender, carob, and a coppery, dusty aspect.

“From a place largely ignored, this wine may have inspired profane exclamation upon first taste, but its beauty is pristine. (The 2012 is also superb.)”

2011 Michel Gahier Les Grands Vergers Arbois Trousseau

Also making it into Bonné’s top ten was this Trousseau from Eastern France.

He said: “ Sure, the Jura is trendy now, but the wines produced by Gahier, whose family has been in this region of eastern France since the 16th century, transcend hipster curiosity.

“From marled soils in Arbois, off vines at least 60 years old, this is Trousseau in its pure state: ripe to the point of cherry ribbon candy, yet deeply earthy and savory, full of smoked-tea and bay-leaf aromas.

“That counterpoint makes it irresistible.

“It also underscores how all the passive-aggressive grumbling by wine curmudgeons about the Jura’s sudden fashionableness misses the point.”

 

1982 Chappellet Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Topping Bonné’s list was this Cabernet Sauvignon from the Napa Valley.

He said: “Made by Tony Soter, this was a bold wine at the time: exuberant, removed from any belief that Napa was trying to copy Bordeaux.

“It was the core of what Napa does best.

“I’ve had several bottles of the ’82 over the years; this was the best yet – still popping with rich fruit and the brambly vitality that gives truly great Cabernet such intrigue.”

 

2010 Bodegas Mauro Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Léon

Writing in the LA Times Irene Virbila highlights this 2010 Spanish red featuring a blend of Tempranillo and Syrah grapes from the Castilla y Léon region.

She said: “This gorgeous red from Spain was made by Mariano Garcia, former cellar master at the legendary Vega Sicilia in Ribera del Duero.

“Though the winery has had a cult following since it was founded in the late ’70s, because the vineyards and winery are just beyond the western edge of Ribera del Duero, the wine labels bear the Tierra de Castilla y Léon appellation.

“The 2010 Mauro, 90% Tempranillo and 10% Syrah, is a pure pleasure to drink.

“On the first sip, this full-bodied red seems very straightforward, just fruit.

“Another sip and another and the wine reveals not only concentrated sweet fruit but also earth, tobacco, cedar and more, all tightly fused. It’s feisty and smooth.”

2012 Save Me, San Francisco “Soul Sister” Pinot Noir

A top pick for the Baltimore Sun’s Michael Dresser was this Californian Pinot Noir made at a vineyard founded by the rock band Train and which takes the name of their 2009 hit.

He said:  “Soul Sister — a reference to the song “Hey, Soul Sister” — is actually quite good and especially fine for a pinot noir in this price range.

“It offers an excellent balance of fruit and acidity, penetrating fruit flavours and a good level of complexity.

“It could pass for a $20 pinot noir easily.

“If you like Train, that’s a bonus. (“Calling All Angels” is their chardonnay.)”

Tomero Malbec 2012

Dave Mcintyre, writing in the Washington Post, picked out his “wines to welcome” in 2014 this week selecting this Argentinean Malbec.

He said: “Argentina’s Malbec continues to impress, with quality and value at nearly all price points.

“This one starts out compact and tight, but with an hour or two to stretch, it unveils an enticing floral note and a silky gracefulness.”

 

 

Mayu Sauvignon Blanc 2012

Another favourite was this Sauvignon Blanc from Elqui Valley in northern Chile.

He said: “This sauvignon blanc from the Elqui Valley in northern Chile has a slightly aggressive, grassy attack that will be familiar to fans of New Zealand savvie.

“On the finish, it tastes more earthy than fruity.”

2009 Nicolas Joly Les Vieux Clos, Savennieres

Writing in the Indianapolis Star Robert Scheer picks out a few of his favourite white wines, including this 2009 Nicholas Joly.

He said: “Joly’s an interesting French winemaker and runs his operation organically, using a biodynamic method that advises certain work be done at specific times of the lunar cycle.

“This bottle at various times gave me flavors and smells of honey, almonds, lemons, peach, dirt, melon, apple, pie spices and pilsner beer.

“Over all others here this is the wine to try if you feel that white wines can’t be as complex as reds.”

2010 Font de Michelle, Chateauneuf du Pape, White

Another of Scheer’s picks includes this “monster” Chateauneuf du Pape blanc from France’s Rhone region.

He said: “This monster-of-a-bottle is as complex as most of the area’s reds.

“Almond, citrus, sweet apple, peach, wool, spring flowers, garden herbs and an almost waxy quality that’s typical of whites from this region.

“This would be great stuff to pour with a well-made dinner featuring poultry, cheese or root vegetables.”

 

Helfrich Steinklotz Grand Cru Riesling 2011, Alsace

For Dennis Sodomka of the Augusta Chronicle this French Riesling, grown in a steep vineyard in the Alsace region, scored highly.

He said:  “The Helfrich Grand Cru Riesling is a perfect example of the region’s wines.

“This is an elegant wine that is great with everyday meals and perfect for special celebrations.

“In the glass it is a beautiful light gold with aromas of peach and citrus.

“On the palate you get crisp lime and citrus flavours with a strong, pleasant dose of mineral.

“The finish is long and lean, with the slate of the vineyard’s soil being predominant.”

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