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Top 10 wines in the US press
Bill St John picks out a Zinfandel that “sports power but sophistication” and Jon Bonné recommends an “irresistible” wine from an “exuberant vintage”.
St John focused on “Zin” in a feature for the Chicago Tribune, writing: “Californians are justly proud of their winemaking prowess with the grapes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Yet, for decades before California even had its name, winemakers in Bordeaux and Burgundy had made notable wines from these same grapes.
“The wine grape that California might be prouder of is Zinfandel, which it has coddled since the 1850s and brought into prominence on its own turf. Though not native to our continent, it truly has become ‘America’s grape.’”
He added: “After recent tastings of 30 California zinfandels from recent vintages, what an awakening awaited! All in all, it was a seducing mix of heady perfumes, persistence of flavours, well-structured, nicely performing red wines.”
Click through the following pages to find out which wines these and other writers in the US have recommended over the last week.
Schloss Vollrads Estate, Rheingau Riesling Kabinett 2011
This wine comes recommended by Rebecca Murphy, who picked it as her “wine of the week” in the Dallas Morning News. She wrote: “From the 800-year-old German wine estate of Schloss Vollrads we have an ethereal wine that whispers of crushed flowers sprinkled on white peaches and green apples. The floral, fruity aromas with flinty mineral notes are followed by sweet, white peach flavours balanced with decisive acidity. The lovely tension of sweetness and acidity makes the wine soft and easy on the palate, with a zesty finish that makes you wonder if you just imagined the sweetness.”
Murphy added: “All these flavours and only 9% alcohol: This is the perfect combination for a spicy-hot dish like a Thai curry that has some sweetness from coconut milk.”
2012 Alamos Torrontes
Michael Dresser in the Baltimore Sun wrote that, “Torrontes is an exceptionally fine white wine grape, grown mostly in Argentina.”
He added; “This is an unusual version but a very good one. It’s more full-bodied than typical wines from this grape. Its weight and texture are reminiscent of an Oregon Pinot Gris, which is not a bad thing. But where the typical Torrontes might pair up with snapper, this version would be more salmon-friendly. It’s intensely flavourful wine with flavours of mulling spices, pear and tropical fruit. It offers great complexity for its price.”
Trivento Malbec Reserve 2012
In the Detroit News, Sandra Silfven wrote that she likes “this Malbec because it has some Old World earthiness.”
She added: “It has a core of berried-plum fruit, but overall, the drying espresso coffee, bittersweet chocolate notes rule. Beginning red wine drinkers might think it is bitter. That’s precisely the charm once you grow your palate.”
2010 J. Christopher Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
This wine was picked out by Irene Virbila as her “wine of the week” in the LA Times. She wrote: “This 2010 Willamette Valley Pinot made from grapes grown in four of the Willamette Valley’s American Viticultural Areas — Dundee Hills, Chehalem Mountains, Yamhill-Carlton and Eola-Amity Hills — is everything you could wish. Silky and nuanced, it tastes of plums, blueberries and forest, an elegant expression of Oregon Pinot Noir. Keep an eye out for the winery’s more expensive single vineyard bottlings too.”
She added: “I’d save it for a roast duck or braised duck legs, maybe a simple grilled hanger steak with sautéed mushrooms. Or a selection of cheeses.”
2010 Tierra Davina ZaZin Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi
This is the wine recommended by Bill St John in the Chicago Tribune. He wrote: From an area to watch for old-vine zinfandel, this one sports power but sophistication, too, with dark red fruit underlaid by puffy, mouth-sweeping tannin.”
Domaine de la Becassonne Blanc 2012
In the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre picked out wines for his readers “that are good enough to grab your attention.”
In recommending this wine he wrote: “White wines from Côtes du Rhone can be hard to like: They tend to be austere, as if the region really has its heart in reds. Becassonne, from the noted winemaker Andre Brunel, is an exception. This blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Clairette is ripe and unctuous with nectarine, apricot and jasmine flavours. Savour it by itself or with seafood, poultry or cheese. Bravo! 13%.
Ottella, Lugana 2012
This is another wine recommended by Dave McIntyre and it’s a wine that he gave three stars to (out of three). He wrote: “Trebbiano is a white grape usually made into cheap, innocuous wines. The Ottella is neither. Rather, it is an example of what the grape can be when the viticulture is careful.”
He added; “With apricot and quince flavours, plus a little tangerine and lemon thyme, the wine is ideal for a weekend brunch on the patio or a first course of seafood salad. This is new to the D.C.-area market, but I hope it becomes a standard. 12.5%.”
2012 Abbazia di Novacella Valle Isarco Kerner
This wine comes recommended by Jon Bonné in the San Francisco Chronicle. He wrote: “This Augustinian abbey remains a strong force in the Isarco valley. Its Kerner, grown at around 2,000 feet on gravel, is always strong, and this exuberant vintage is the best in several years.”
Bonné added: “Full of pink grapefruit and agave flavours, with a wonderful rooty aspect underneath: fennel bulb and lilies. Irresistible, although Abbazia’s entire 2012 lineup rallied, including the Valle Isarco Muller Thurgau, a juicy, poppy-seed-accented example of that underrated grape.”
2012 Castel Sallegg Steinleiten Alto Adige Moscato Giallo
Bonné also recommended this wine, writing: “Muscat is hardly the obvious grape in Alto Adige, compared with Piedmont or even Austrian Styria to the northeast. But grown near Lake Caldaro in well-drained gravel and sandstone, it shows great clarity: orange blossom, iris, white stone and that classic dry peach flavour of the best Muscats.”
2011 Louis Latour Grand Ardèche Chardonnay
And finally, in the Wall Street Journal, Will Lyons described this wine as a “real find for those who love the rich, buttery style of Chardonnay found in the Burgundian village of Meursault but prefer not to pat their prices.”
He added: “This ripe, creamy wine is made to the west of the Rhône valley, in the Ardèche.