The top 10 wines in the US press

Eric Asimov features Greek wines recommending a “clean, precise and energetic” white, while Irene Virbila picks out “one of the best Californian rosés.”

In the New York Times, Asimov wrote that the “white wine grapes of Greece — with names like Moschofilero, Roditis and Assyrtiko — sound a bit scary, like alien beings. But I think of them as the constituents of a parallel universe in which crowds of people embrace these wonderfully refreshing, intriguing whites, rather than default to generic summer white wines like Pinot Grigio. I imagine this for the Assyrtiko, especially.”

He added that while he doesn’t have anything against Pinot Grigio, which “can be a delight, but much of it is mundane. Why should anybody who cares about what they eat and drink settle for familiar and icy rather than something full of character?”

“Skip the insipid wines,” Asimov goes on, “go right to good bottles. Discriminate.”

“The good news,” he adds “is, the parallel universe of provocative Greek wines, made primarily from this trio of little-known grapes, is very much an available reality, offering a wonderful trove of wines that can be stimulating, even riveting, and rarely boring.”

Meanwhile in the LA Times, Irene Virbila is on less of a rant and recommends a California rosé, telling her readers to “keep a bottle on hand in the fridge.” She adds of her recommendation: “Drink it as an apéritif with bowls of olives and toasted almonds, or with little toasts spread with olive tapenade. It’s also a great match with grilled salmon, salade Niçoise, stuffed zucchini blossoms or shredded chicken tacos. Anything light and savoury.”

Click through the following pages to find out more about these and other wines recommended in the US press over the last week.

2011 Marquis d’Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds

In the Wall Street Journal, Will Lyons recommended this wine, writing: “This Taillepieds is fairly reserved, with slight notes of wild strawberry, raspberry and dark fruit on the back of the palate.

“The acidity is electric, and there is a core line of minerality that comes from the vineyard’s stony soil.”

Borie la Vitarele Les Terres Blanches 2010

Writing in the Washington Post, Dave McIntyre recommended this wine, which he described as a “delightful blend of Grenache, Syrah and a splash of Mourvedre [that] tastes like a mini-Chateauneuf-du-Pape, though without the alcoholic burn that typifies so many of those more pricey, sought-after wines.”

He added: “There is delicious blackberry and currant fruit, seasoned with wild herbs and sea air, yet also a minerally structure that keeps the wine firmly grounded.”

Steininger Gruner Veltliner 2012

McIntyre also recommened this wine, writing that “Gruner Veltliner is one of my favourite wines for summer because of its refreshing acidity and minerality, traits that make it versatile with food as well.”

He added: “This example is quite young and firm, though worth stocking up on now for later in the summer, when it should be more relaxed. It shows the classic white-flower flavours of peach blossom and jasmine, with a hint of citrus and perfumed with talc. And at a modest 12.5%, the alcohol does not get in the way.”

2012 La Fenêtre A Côté Rosé

This is the wine recommended by Irene Virbila in the LA Times, she picked it as her “wine of the week”. Virbila wrote: “Except for the colour, a deep rose, the 2012 A Côté Rosé is reminiscent of a Bandol rosé. Perfumed with strawberries and rose petals, this year it’s 100% Pinot Noir (previous bottlings have been a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot) and one of the best rosés I’ve tasted out of California.

“It has a wonderful delicacy, crisp acidity and long smooth finish. A Côté — “next door” — is the second label of La Fenêtre Wines, founded in 2005 by sommelier Joshua Klapper. For this wine, he sources the grapes from vineyards in Santa Barbara County. And at $15 or less, it’s well priced for summer drinking. Keep a bottle on hand in the fridge.”

2009 Hestan Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

In the Miami Herald, Fred Tasker looks at the summer’s barbecue season and recommends wines that work with chargrilled food. He wrote: “Because of the bitterness of scorch marks on grilled morsels, a perfect wine match for most of them — even the veggies — is Cabernet Sauvignon, which has the bitterness of hefty amounts of tannin. A good Cab also has the powerful, dark-red fruit flavours and body to stand up to the burn.”

He wrote of this wine: “Hint of oak, aromas and flavours of black plums and cassis, full-bodied, powerful tannins, smooth, age-worthy.”

2009 Clos LaChance Cabernet Sauvignon

Tasker also recommended this as a wine to enjoy with barbecued food, writing: “hint of oak, aromas and flavours of blackberries and espresso, smooth, soft tannins.”

Argyros Santorini, Assyrtiko 2011

This wine was at the top of Eric Asimov’s tasting panel list of Greek wines in the New York Times. He wrote: “Our top three wines reflected the best and most consistent Santorini producers, not necessarily in any particular order. In fact, each of these producers had two wines on the list.

“Number one was the 2011 Assyrtiko from Argyros, which has made wine on Santorini for more than a century. It’s entirely Assyrtiko, and vinified in steel tanks to maximise its clean zestiness. Yet this is not a fruity wine. The flavours are savoury and textural. This was also our best value at $19.

“Clean, precise and energetic with a succulent texture and briny, mineral flavours.”

Domaine Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko-Athiri 2011

This wine was listed second by Asimov’s tasting panel, and he explained that “Domaine Sigalas, has been in business a mere 20 years but is perhaps the most intriguing of the Santorini producers.”

He added: “In contrast with Argyros, we preferred Sigalas’s 2011 blend of 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri over its 2012 100% Assyrtiko, our number eight wine. The blend was earthy and briny, with a wonderfully inviting texture.”

Caldora, Terre di Chieti IGT, Unoaked Chardonnay 2011

Rebecca Murphy in the Dallas Morning News picked out this as her wine of the week, writing: “Terre di Chieti is a broad wine region in the province of Abruzzo, which is located just below the calf of Italy’s boot. The Apennine Mountains, which meander down the center of the country, make Abruzzo’s western border, and the Adriatic Sea provides the eastern boundary.

She added: “This Chardonnay is a delightful surprise. Plentiful tropical fruits like mango and pineapple mingle with apple, pear and citrus for a satisfying mélange of flavour. Snappy acidity gives it a bright finish. The price makes it easy to keep on hand as a poolside sipper, or you can serve it with a seafood salad.”

2009 Andretti Chardonnay

Robert Scheer in the Indianapolis Star, visited former racing driver turned winery owner Mario Andretti, and tried this wine. He wrote: “It’s buttery and oaky, but not overdone, and there’s a lemony kick at the end that’s clean and pure, plus something that reminds me of fresh pear and nectarine.

“Chardonnays that tip into the Grade A range have extra complexity and flavours that sometimes remind me of figs, toffee and baking spices. Grade: B+.”