Friuli making “world class” Sauvignon

The northeastern Italian region of Friuli is making some of the world’s greatest Sauvignon Blancs according to leading Italian producer, Zonin.

Friuli in northeastern Italy, is showing promise for Sauvignon Blanc. Credit: Rocco Studio

Speaking at a trade lunch in London last week to showcase the company’s aromatic varieties, Lorenzo Zonin, brand manager for his family company said: “Sauvignon Blanc from Friuli is the perfect midpoint between those from Sancerre and those from New World countries like New Zealand.

“It’s less green and aromatic than New Zealand Sauvignon and boasts the riper fruit notes found in Sancerre,” he revealed.

Zonin said his family’s Friuli estate, Tenuta Ca’ Bolani, aims to become a flag bearer for Sauvignon Blanc in Italy, as there isn’t much produced in the country.

“Our style is unique as it straddles both the Old and New World. We’ve stopped using oak in recent years to really let the terroir sing in the wines,” he said.

“Our top tier Sauvignon has really good ageing potential, and loses its green aromatics over the years, which are replaced by charming candied fruit and nutty aromas,” Zonin said, noting that Friuli’s limestone-rich clay and gravel soils help give the wines a mineral edge.

Lorenzo Zonin

“We’re seeing a huge thirst for aromatic grapes at the moment and we can’t produce enough of our Traminer from Friuli to satisfy global demand,” Zonin admitted.

“Aromatic varieties are instantly identifiable and give instant enjoyment, so consumers trust them as they know what to expect from them,” he added.

Laurent Chaniac, head sommelier of Indian restaurant The Cinnamon Club in St James’s, believes consumer tastes are coming round to the ripe fruit character of Old World Sauvignon Blanc championed in the Loire Valley.

“People don’t want vegetal aromatic and cassis buds anymore; they want ripe fruit and confit lemon flavours.

“At the top end, Sauvignon Blanc can age really well, but very few people are aware of this. It’s the riper styles that have the ability to age, not the New World styles of cat pee on a gooseberry bush,” he said.

“In order for Sauvignon Blanc to age well it needs to have been made with whole bunch fermentation so it has enough concentration to see it through.

“We’ll see more of this style coming through at the top end, and the New World will have to adapt their style of Sauvignon to what the market wants,” he added.

Zonin meanwhile, believes that Sauvignon Blanc has been a victim of its own success, spawning a mass of one-dimensional spin-offs due to its international popularity.

Among the main markets for Zonin’s Tenuta Ca’ Bolani Sauvignon Blanc, of which there are three tiers in the range, are Italy, the UK, the US and Germany.